【三重合宿】DMG MORI Arenaでリード合宿！施設が凄すぎて成長しまくり！？🔥🔥

今回はスポンサーをしていただいているDMG MORI Arenaで智亜、啓代、イマユー、史温の4人でリード合宿をしました！
巨大な施設をなんと貸切りで使わせていただき、最高の2日間になりました！
パリオリンピックに向けて順調に準備を進めています！
ぜひ応援よろしくお願いいたします！😎

〜DMG MORI Arenaの詳細〜　※HPから引用
DMGMORIアリーナは1,600人の観客を収容できる第一競技場、第二競技場、トレーニングルーム、ダンススタジオ、キッズアスレチック、カフェ、4つの会議室/スタジオからなる屋内体育施設です。
また3種のスポーツクライミング施設（リード・ボルダー・スピード）が常設された、国内唯一のアリーナです。
地域スポーツの振興及び普及を図るとともに交流拠点施設としての役割も有し、さまざまなイベントにも利用いただくことができます。

【DMG MORI ArenaのHPはこちら！】
↓↓
https://www.dmgmoriarena.com/

▼▼ このチャンネルについて ▼▼▼
こんにちは！野口啓代、楢崎智亜、池田雄大、楢崎明智です！！
YouTubeを通じて、クライミングの楽しさ、色々な技術・上達方法、課題攻略のポイント・コツなどを分かりやすく丁寧にお届けしていきます！
このチャンネルが、皆さんがクライミングを始めるきっかけ、上達を目指すきっかけになれば幸いです。

＊教育上不適切なコメントはご遠慮ください。（運営にて不適切と判断した場合、コメントを削除させていただきます旨、ご了承ください。）

英語翻訳
Nick Hitoki Hodge
@nickhodge

▼▼▼連絡先▼▼▼
コラボや案件など、お仕事の連絡はこちらまで
TAMYclimbing@gmail.com

▼▼▼〈instagramアカウント〉▼▼▼
・楢崎智亜Narasaki Tomoa　
　　　https://www.instagram.com/tomoa_narasaki
・野口啓代Noguchi Akiyo
　　　 https://www.instagram.com/noguchi_akiyo
・池田雄大Yudai Ikeda
　　　 https://www.instagram.com/yudai__ikeda
・楢崎明智Meichi Narasaki
　　　 https://www.instagram.com/meichi_narasaki

Akiyo : Where are guys going?
Tomoa : Now we’re heading to Mie prefecture.
Akiyo : Why?
Tomoa : We are going to participate in the Lead training camp held by DMG who is the sponsor of this event.
Tomoa : This is Yuta and Shion. These guys are gonna practice with me.
Akiyo : these are the members for the training camp.
Akiyo : Hi Yuta.
Akiyo : Surprisingly he will be representing Japan at Lead.
Tomoa : "Surprisingly"!? That’s kinda rude. lol
Tomoa : Well he’s better at Boulder though.
Akiyo : Yea he’s known more for Boulder.
Akiyo : And
Tomoa : He’s the Japanese champion.
Yuta : Cool.
Akiyo : Shion. He has been champion for the last 2 years.
Shion : I am the champion.
Tomoa : Omg.
Tomoa :Everyone is very strong.
Tomoa : I believe I will get inspiration from them.
Akiyo : Are you okay?
Akiyo : What place were you at the Japan tour?
Tomoa : Please don’t ask me the question.
Tomoa : I’ll do my best.
Akiyo : Good luck.
Tomoa : Good morning.
Akiyo : Morning.
Tomoa : I’m warming up.
Akiyo : Where is this place?
Tomoa : DMG Mori Arena.
Tomoa : This is the area for Boulder and Speed.
Akiyo : How are you feeling so far?
Tomoa : Hi don’t know yet honestly.
Tomoa : I’m just gonna warm up in Boulder and pump my forearms.
Yuta : I’m so nervous. My tummy hurts.
Tomoa : Are you nervous?
Akiyo : Are you?
Tomoa : How do you feel?
Yuta : Not bad.
Tomoa : Everyone likes you.
Akiyo : Are you feeling okay?
Yuta : Not bad.
Akiyo : Nice. He’s so confident.
Yuta : No no. I don’t know yet.
Akiyo : It’s kinda funny to see Yuta being so serious.
Shinta : I know right?
Shinta : At comps it’s always funny to see him being so serious.
Tomoa : Holds were pretty good there.
Shinta : Yeah. You have to make sure to shake out in those spots.
Shinta : Because you’re not doing that, it affects you later on.
Tomoa : When I got to the head wall I felt I could do it.
Akiyo : You looked like you had enough gas to top.
Tomoa : But I often fall when I feel like that.
Akiyo : You definitely chose the wrong move this time.
Tomoa : I think I could do that with the move I did.
Akiyo : Yea you’re right.
Akiyo : But probably not the best choice when you are onsighting the route.
Tomoa: I still grip too hard.
Tomoa : Even though the holds were good.
Akiyo : You grip too hard because the holds are good.
Tomoa : Also the feet were pretty far away from each other.
Shinta : It suddenly gets worse from there.
Tomoa : Right.
Shinta : Because the holds change.
Shinta : How do you feel seeing yourself climbing?
Tomoa : I should have probably gone back a move at this point.
Tomoa: Because this hold was good.
Tomoa: I should be cutting my feet here.
Shinta: You want your foot work to get smooth there.
Yuta: Did Shion fall there too?
Shion: Everyone fell there.
Shinta: Didn’t you set this?
Yuta: Oh everyone one was the same.
Shinta: Lets to observation for the next route.
Tomoa: Okay.
Akiyo: How does the second route look.
Tomoa: There are more bumping and dead point movements in this route.
Tomoa: So I think it is a little more boulder like.
Tomoa: The feet are also bad and look cramped.
Tomoa: So even if the holds are good i might get pumped.
Akiyo: Where do you think you can get to?
Akiyo: Top?
Tomoa: I want to get at least 80%. Above 84 % is ideal.
Akiyo: On the last route you only got 64.
Tomoa: Thats not good.
Tomoa: Yeah that not great, but I guess it depends on everyone else score too.
Tomoa: The end of Day 1.
Today we attempted to onsight 3 routes.
Tomoa: And tried to red point the same routes.
Tomoa: That was todays training. In the end no one was able to onsight any of the routes.
Tomoa: The routes were hard but…
Tomoa: But I think the routes were set with top lead athletes such as Jakob and Toby, in mind.
Tomoa: I think it was very beneficial for me. Great training.
Tomoa: On the AU wall that I usually practice on the holds a larger, usually with better feet and bad hands.
Tomoa: But today, the hand holds were good but the feet were small or close to the hands.
Tomoa: Also the feet were set on opposing sides which made it hard to rest. It was great training.
Akiyo: How is your skin after day 1?
Tomoa: Not too bad. Can you see?
Akiyo: Yeah.
Tomoa: I lost more skin from yesterday’s boulder training not todays lead.
Tomoa: I am a bit tired.
Akiyo: What is the plan for day 2 of the training camp?
Tomoa: We have 1 route left to try and onsight. so we will attempt that first and then…..
Tomoa: I will also try to complete the routes I couldn’t top today and also do some interval training.
Tomoa: Shion also went home today.
Akiyo: So it will just be you and Yuta tomorrow.
Tomoa: I will do my best.
Akiyo: Good Luck.
Akiyo: We arrived.
Tomoa: Good morning.
Tomoa: Day 2 is starting.
Yuta: I am a bit tired.
Akiyo: You look tired.
Akiyo: Must just be the morning.
Tomoa: I dont usually do this but.
Tomoa: Should we get equipment like this for Au wall.
Akiyo: First onsight try of Day 2. How do you feel?
Tomoa: I am feeling quite fatigued from yesterday, so this first try is super important.
Tomoa: Ill try my best.
Tomoa: It is 1pm of Day 2. We are going to have a lunch break soon.
Tomoa: and then we are going to try the 5.14s from yesterday.
Akiyo: Your next try might be your last chance.
Tomoa: I am losing stamina.
Akiyo: And you’re losing skin.
Tomoa: yeah my fingers are getting moist.
Akiyo: How is day 2 going?
Yuta: I am very fatigued.
Akiyo: But your last attempt was very good.
Yuta: I am giving it my all today.
Akiyo: Just keep pushing though.
Yuta: That miss clip hurts.
Tomoa: Thats the worst.
Yuta: Are you coming down?
Tomoa Yeah.
Tomoa: Damn.
Tomoa: My soul, my energy at the end.
Akiyo: If you got that clip first go you had a chance.
Tomoa: Yeah.
Tomoa: I couldn’t hold that position anymore.
Tomoa: I am at my limit.
Tomoa: Honestly, I was pretty done at the half way point but.
Tomoa: I was able to rest a bit and get to the second last hold.
Tomoa: I feel like my body is starting to turn into a lead climber.
Akiyo: Your not giving up.
Tomoa: I’m pushing through with heart.
Tomoa: I’ll keep trying my best. Yuta too.
Akiyo: Secret weapon?
Tomoa: Everyone is doing this.
Tomoa: I think i’m past the point of full recovery but..
Tomoa: Hopefully it will help a little.
Akiyo: How are your forearms feeling?
Yuta: pumped.
Akiyo: They are huge.
Yuta: Great training.
Akiyo: Do the thing.
Tomoa: You are starting to get huge.
Akiyo: Yeah.
Tomoa: This is the end of the training camp.
Thank you for your hard work.
Akiyo: How was the training camp?
Tomoa: I didn’t top anything.
Tomoa: Honestly, I couldn’t do them but.
Akiyo: No one topped anything in the 5.14 range
Tomoa: I didn’t know what to expect this time around but my results got better as the training camp progressed.
Tomoa: I want to be able to get to that level from my onsight attempt.
Tomoa: It was a very meaningful training camp.
Akiyo: Yuta, what about you?
Yuta: Day 1 I really didn’t do well and couldn’t climb anything.
Yuta: But Day 2, I was able to climb to my limit and get pumped
Tomoa: Good training?
Yuta: It was meaningful thank you very much.
Tomoa: Because it is a different location to my normal training, I didn’t know what the holds would be like so….
Tomoa: I felt lots of different types of pressure so It was great training in that sense also.
Tomoa: Also because we had the place to our selves we were able to do interval training which was great.
Akiyo: Having a place like this to ourselves is insane.
Tomoa: It is amazing.
Yuta: It is a little quite and lonely.
Akiyo: Too spacious.
Tomoa: We are hoping to have another training camp here in may.
Tomoa: I am looking forward to that. Yuta make sure you come too.
Yuta: Of course.
Tomoa: I’ll do my best to be stronger by then.
Akiyo: Bye~