The grip strength of the World’s best climber will shock you

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Sam Tuck & Elliot Walker, edited by Markus Skaane

World’s best climber tries his grip strength… and the result will chock you!

Music and Sound Effects: http://share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn​

So the main reason we were in berno to meet  Adam was because we were shooting his first   ever online lead course and if you want to watch  a sneak peek video of that head over to altitudeclimbing.com   I have tested the grip of some  of the strongest men on this planet nice easy  

But I have yet to test the grip of the strongest  climber Adam Ondra has won pretty much anything   there is to win in climbing both in bouldering  and lead not to mention all his achievements on   Rock he’s considered the best rock climber to  have ever lived but exactly how strong is his  

Grip well we’re about to find [Music] out we have  huh do we have enough weight uh I don’t know you   tell me I’m not sure I don’t know I don’t know how  strong you’re going to be in this you think you’re  

Going to be strong for this I don’t know maybe I  think it really depends on the tools though but   this is the moment that the whole world has been  waiting for how strong is Adam Andra really little  

Bit warm up yeah okay warm up a little bit this  has been a very requested video though to test   Adam’s uh strength on not only this but also on  all the grip tools there I’m excited to see how  

It transfers climbing strength to this stuff I  agree this I’m not good at either the same with   the things like it’s the thing that pinching  while you are climbing is so much more about   like the friction and the right position yeah and  maybe also like using the side PS and stuff like  

This you really like just pinching the [ __ ]  out of it you know and and also the the pinch   isn’t really moving yeah this is like bouncy um  okay I’m going to try first see how much I can get 73.9 wow that’s that’s really good yeah  whenever you’re ready make sure that you have  

It in your hand like plays it really well with  you think is it better to have like on the second   pad or I think as far in as possible and just  use the other hand to really get it well in [Music] here oh it’s exactly the  same isn’t it like exactly was I  

Forget what it was I think it’s pretty  much exactly the same all right high five what’s the max 90 kilos is the max so we  were like 17 kilos from the max which was pretty   close to maxing it out actually how much do you  weight now I’m overweight maybe 75 over 7 what  

75 I think 75 okay I just took like a 3 we break  so my like top shape is 71 71 yeah so I brought a   few tools here mhm go we don’t have to do all of  these so I feel like you should decide which ones  

You want want to try I think the Rolling Thunder  is really cool it’ be nice to see how you can do   on that the Hub I’m really excited to see you  on this I think you might be able to break a  

World record because your thumb is really strong  right I’m excited yeah this is like perfect grip   we might set a world record today and then  this this is my worst thing because it’s so  

Large when you hold it like this just hold it it  feels very good but when you put some weight on   it it’s it’s weird with the wrist somehow uhhuh  and then it’s just a cramp yeah that’s probably  

The most CL relatable CL related last time we  were here you showed me like the big rolling thing and you’re really strong in that so I  no I don’t think you be pretty strong in this   I don’t know exactly what the world record  is but I think that we might beat some World  

Records [Music] today I think we can start at this  is 48 kilos do you want to do the honors yeah so   you’re just capping it capping it meaning you’re  not using the thumb you just like to do this yeah  

Yeah that’s the rule no you can use the you can  punch it okay I like to use the Thum should we   just go up to 63 all right or is that maybe too  much 58 I think I actually don’t know what if my  

Right or left arm is better yeah did it try I  think my right arm is better [Music] the thing   about these exercises is that it feels very easy  up until one point and this feels impossible you  

Know the whole like the the grip lifting Community  has been very excited to see you do this really   excited to see how like how a world class climber  how much can they lift yeah it’s already starting  

You start it’s not that but honestly I think  cupping it with no thump is more relatable to   climb me yeah yeah it’s like this big slopers  feel like should we go up five or 10 let’s dry

Five yeah nice so this is is better this is the  way where it starts to get hard you know Emil   abrahamson he’s really strong in this exact I can  imagine he’s like I think he can do close to 100  

Kilos it’s like 90 kilos it’s crazy solid yeah  but it’s hard it would also be easier if we’re   standing on something because now at least for  my height I have to lift it like this but it’s  

Very much about your your fingers too if you  can grip all the way through let’s see how   you’re yeah you’re not quite I have a big hand  but relatively short fingers thank God which is   great for climbing I think yeah cuz otherwise  the momentum would be hard to deal with so for  

Sure like it’s good to have long fingers for  like I don’t know fat pinches but in general I   think it’s a big disadvantage fat fingers could be  disadvantage for like Pockets but at least I think  

It helps you to stay healthy with the fingers so  fat and short fingers is a really good combination   I think for pretty much everyone I’ve seen with  strong fingers have fat fingers yeah yeah and   relatively short I don’t know anyone who is like  super long fingers and super strong ones so 5  

Kilos more 5 kilos more so we remove this and put  on a 10 and I think that will be on the limit for   me you look quite solid yeah I was close to my  Max though we’re closing in on our body weight here come

On was close yeah that was that  was close it’s so when you watch   it you’re just like ah it’s going  to go it’s going to go it’s going to go you uh you want to try again or  should I I try for the right hand yes come [Music]

On that stronger it was  very close though all right 68 now it’s getting hard it’s like all of a sudden nice that was even closer though yeah  should we maybe go down 2.5 kilos yeah it’s   crazy how it just goes from like uh  easy to impossible so you said like  

Lifting Community is it like a big thing is  it a sport are there competitions there are   competitions yeah and it’s based on weights so  there’s weight categories and stuff yeah come [Laughter] on do you feel like any sort of  pressure doing this or do you feel like you  

Don’t care do you do you want to do well  absolutely absolutely you feel pressure   yeah I’m I’m ambitious you’re ambitious I’m  competitive yeah is there anything where   you’re not competitive a lot of things yeah  if you feel like you have no like soccer would  

You be competitive if you play soccer against  someone because I suck so much so it’s better   to feel like not being competitive otherwise  I would be just frustrated all how much does   this relate to climbing though this exercise  certain certain moves yes yeah where the wrist  

Is involved somehow cuz I feel like this and  pinching for sure but there’s lots of ways   how you can still cheat on the on the pinches  so so for example like pinching the tofas mhm  

Is like so much less about how strong you are  here or even the core if you know how to grab   them and how to like make it that these spikes  on the Limestone just bites into your skin and  

It’s like half of the half of the job is done so  much more technical than you and also I feel like   climbing is more like locking the grip while  this is like actively squeezing the same thing  

This thing like you’re sing and you don’t do  that in climbing really you just lock the grip   even on twof us you like hold it and then you  lock it mhm yeah come on I can a little bit

But probably doesn’t count it’s not high  enough we should uh move on to the next one let’s do the Hub next that is the one I’m the  most excited for you to try cuz I know your thumb  

Is crazy strong remember the Bowers you set  with the thumb thing M mhm like I wonder if   it transfers to the and I also like to like twist  my thumb like in in this way for the pinches you  

Just feel the tool first so the thing is you want  to use your other hand first to really get it good   and then you let go of it so like something like  this yeah and then you let go so like one part  

Is here and one one part is here yeah like I I  use this to really dig in and then when I find   the right spot I let go and then I do this and  probably like the thumb should be completely on  

The opposite side of the fingers if you’re like  little sideways you can’t really squeeze you   can’t squeeze and also remember to use the pinky  as well ah do you have the pinky from the side or   I think here just helping a little bit support  here okay my pinky is really small though it’s  

Like a little shrimp so I can’t really do much  with it but your pinky is Beefy as hell I use   it a lot to myself look at that his his pinky  is like compare pinkies oh it’s actually not  

That maybe it’s not that it’s just a little bit  thicker mine is as long we have the same length   it’s just yours is like beef here it’s true  that they pinky compared to the rest of the   fingers it’s pretty skinny yeah would you be  able to tell our fingers apart comment below  

So without me telling you how much weight we  should put on what what would you say how much   would you we start on what what do you think your  weight would be cuz it’s very hard to say if you  

Haven’t done it before so I would start with  45 45 kilos that would be a world record wow really okay have you ever held a hold like  this like in a roof if it hold was like this  

Sometimes you have to wrap right it’s like a  it’s like a pistol wrap I mean there are the   T far balls that I mean if you if you just reach  them you have to hold it like this but then you  

Switch into this right and this is pretty common  I would say I I think it’d be very cool to have   if you had two of these and try to hang off of  them I think very few people would be allowed  

Would be able to like for me I would have to hold  35 kilos in each hand and I think pretty much it’   be only climbers were able to hold that way this  would be so much fingerprint yeah cuz you would  

Be like crimping in more yeah I mean unless you do  some weird stuff it would be still finger strand yeah how did that feel good good yeah  I’m still not very sure about the technique yeah and also if  my left hand is better or

No I have to feel with more weight yeah either  more straightforward pinching or more kind of   this weird octopusy yeah and you also want to  keep it a little bit at an Ang I think so you   hold instead of holding like this you’re like  this yeah from this perspective probably more  

Pinching it is more favorable yeah it’s already  starting to get a little bit harder right yeah yeah if we put 2.5 on then it’s going to be 25 exactly yeah it looks pretty easy so  far forget what my record is oh yeah  

It is that’s really good I think this  might be the my heaviest lift but this   is pretty much the only exercise that I’m  able to beat like bodybuilders and stuff   on it’s just very specific to climbing I’m  going to try my left hand now I can’t do my

[Music] left I no no I don’t feel that strong  today get it proba is better come on let me   brush it based on the previous weight  I would never think that this would be   a problem I know I know it’s just like  all of a sudden it becomes impossible  

It’s so I don’t know what it is about  this but when you watch I I I like hold   my breath while you’re lifting you know  I’m just like is he going to get [Music] it oh man this is impossible it’s also  a lot about muscle memory though like  

If you’ve done it once I remember the  first time I tried this I couldn’t do   that much and then I just done it  like probably like two times a year   or something and just because of that  my my muscles and my memor is [Music]

Justed all of a sudden also like the  grip position is like completely wrong yeah okay I’ll try my octopusy that is a  very strange way yes nice you did it the   octopusy way wait how was that like this  I think you just invented a new technique  

I mean it’s very trainable I think okay  wait so it’s basically you’re squeezing   in between the index and Pinky and everything  else is just like that’s a cool way of doing it there you go it always happens you  know I call it okay I didn’t try hard  

Enough you didn’t try hard enough you  should try you should try more though   maybe you can set a world record with the octopus sweat it’s so annoying right you want  to leave it yeah yeah all right like  

I was quite close to cutting to cutting it as  well it doesn’t matter we climbing though cuz   you’re not going to so it’s just it’s just  annoying that it’s bleeding all over the place this is my worst scrip tool but  you have bigger fingers so you might  

Like it mhm so what is your personal best  I don’t know very little like is it even   hotter than this it’s almost it’s pretty  much the same how does it feel good easy   easy yeah okay maybe put a five on  maybe even even more remember that  

All of a sudden it just becomes impossible  sorry for making a mess at your gym by the [Applause] way it already I mean for  me now it’s not that easy anymore yeah   it’s getting harder yeah it’s  just so hard for the wrist this

One yeah I think this is going to be  where I max out 33 come on you got [Music] itoo yeah that is strong  I’m going to try with my we can first no chance come on it’s just so weird  with the thumb I don’t know what what it

Is but it feels quite similar to like  the typical flat hole big pinch which   is like really painful for here yeah like  this Edge to bite into your skin and then   just ah yeah how much more do you think  you can do on that let’s try to and half  

Do you have weaker and stronger hand for each  exercise and it’s always the same one um it’s   always the right is a Little Bit Stronger  yeah come on this was the right left hand no I actually think my left arm is maybe  stronger I was closer yeah no that good  

That was pretty much my Max okay well that that  was solid um all right let’s go on to the last   one this is the most climbing specific so  this is like a half crimp I’d say around  

2 cm so I guess you’re not allowed to use a  thumb like this you just have to half crimp   it or crimp it or whatever you want don’t  get injured though I don’t want to injure you so it’s 61 or 62

62 how does that feel not super easy not super  easy you haven’t you haven’t climbed in two weeks   you said before this right three weeks three weeks  now I now I climb I had two climbing sessions two  

Climbing sessions and why did you not climb uh  I take like an annual rest every every year it   sucks to climb for the next couple of weeks but I  think it’s important in the long term right so for  

One arm dead hangs my right arm is much weaker  really okay but for everything else your right   hand is stronger depends I think I’m stronger in  CRI full crimp yeah I’m much on the right arm but  

Everything else on the campus board my my left arm  is stronger but for all these things my right arm   was Stronger right I’ll try with the that’s  oh with a thumb that is nasty I never use my

Thumb I still feel like I can go up  quite a bit so this is more or less   our body weight right yeah this is 72  kilos so yeah pretty much body weight   five yep so that’s 77 pillow so I think  this was my Max for the left right arm  

Yeah let’s see that’s the thing if I full  crimp on the left hand it’s not going to work doesn’t count it was my count my  best I’m going to try my left hand as well I feel a little bit lightheaded I can’t   believe you put your thumb  on that is [Music] nasty

I I was expecting you to be stronger than  that to be honest I think in a good shape   I would be stronger yeah because I think  right now I’m in a shape that I mean one  

Arm dead hanging this one will be pretty hard  and like in a good shape it’s easy but it just   goes to show that climbing is so much more  complex you know because if we went outside  

Now and tried a hard bow prom like I could  probably not even do his warm-ups so like it   just goes to show that I don’t really think  so but well it’s I mean like right now you  

Even though you took a three week rest you’re  still like crazy strong and just this stuff is   just so different you know so for me because  I’m out of shape maybe like typical mood B   Brown would feel really hard for me but like  more complex 8B on the Rock would maybe feel  

Okay because it’s just so much more just than  pure power whereas like typical Moon B problem   Moon B problem like if you don’t have the power  there’s nothing you can do but two more weeks of  

Climbing and all of a sudden it would feel easy  I’m going to try to put on another 5 kilos I think oh it helped you no I think I could  go up quite a bit actually wow who would   be the strongest climber in the world  for this Eve you Canadian guy I think  

So I think so maybe I don’t know about  the super strong Japanese guy who can   like one arm pull up on the 6 mm probably  compared to his body weight he could do more yeah ah so you’re helping with the other hand no  not the other hand no no like you were touching  

The knee oh yeah it it looked like it helped  it probably helps don’t have to do it though yeah just a little bit better shape and it will  go but I feel like my fingers are just just  

Opening up I’m pretty sure that in a good shape  I could do yeah yeah probably no that was very   surprising but uh this was your strongest one  I think that was that was what I also expected  

Really you expected to be stronger on this than  this yeah yeah okay wow that is cool well that   was uh it make sure that you check out Adam  on all social media platforms and see you next time