【外岩】餓鬼道 5段（V14）FL ＆ 阿修羅道 5段＋（V15）FA🔥🔥🔥

こんにちは！
智亜とイマユーで福島の餓鬼道を登りにいきました！🤩
貴重な体験ができたのでぜひ動画を楽しんでください！

・餓鬼道 5段 FL
・阿修羅道 5段+FA

撮影:2023/12/20

▼▼ このチャンネルについて ▼▼▼
こんにちは！野口啓代、楢崎智亜、池田雄大、楢崎明智です！！
YouTubeを通じて、クライミングの楽しさ、色々な技術・上達方法、課題攻略のポイント・コツなどを分かりやすく丁寧にお届けしていきます！
このチャンネルが、皆さんがクライミングを始めるきっかけ、上達を目指すきっかけになれば幸いです。

＊教育上不適切なコメントはご遠慮ください。（運営にて不適切と判断した場合、コメントを削除させていただきます旨、ご了承ください。）

英語翻訳
Nick Hitoki Hodge
@nickhodge

▼▼▼連絡先▼▼▼
コラボや案件など、お仕事の連絡はこちらまで
TAMYclimbing@gmail.com

▼▼▼〈instagramアカウント〉▼▼▼
・楢崎智亜Narasaki Tomoa　
　　　https://www.instagram.com/tomoa_narasaki
・野口啓代Noguchi Akiyo
　　　 https://www.instagram.com/noguchi_akiyo
・池田雄大Yudai Ikeda
　　　 https://www.instagram.com/yudai__ikeda
・楢崎明智Meichi Narasaki
https://www.instagram.com/

Tomoa: I might try it now. Yuta: Don’t climb it in like 3 goes. Tomoa: Okay Gakido V14 FL Yuta: That was too quick Mr Tomoa Tomoa: I did it…. Yuta: that was quick. Yuta: You flashed it. Yuta: That was amazing, way too quick.

Yuta: I guess you have to do the SD project. Tomoa: I just climbed it. Tomoa: I will climb down. Yuta: I can’t believe it. Tomoa: Wait a second. Tomoa: It must match my style Yuta: Anyway, congratulations. Tomoa: You completely missed it Yuta: Ouch.

Yuta: So close Tomoa: I can do this! Tomoa: Is your foot okay? Yuta: Yep, I feel like I can do it. Tomoa: Damn, I can do this. Yuta: Close! Yuta: That’s amazing. Tomoa: I can still have another go. Yuta: You were a bit lower that time. Slightly.

Tomoa: The left hand? Yuta: Yeah. Ashurado V15 FA Yuta: Wow Tomoa: Lets go Yuta: That crazy. Yuta: Come on. Yuta: Amazing. Yuta: He just climbed it. Tomoa: FA Yuta: Nice FA! Tomoa: I did it. Yuta: This is going to be huge news in the climbing community.

Yuta: Congrats. Yuta: Thats amazing. Tomoa: I’m glad. Yuta: unbelievable. Yuta: Really, congratulations. Tomoa: Thank you. Yuta: What do you think the grade is? Tomoa: Lets talk about that later… Yuta: I can think I can hold that. Gakido V14 Tomoa: Come on, focus to the end.

Tomoa: The mantle is kind of scary, right? Yuta: I did it. Tomoa: Nice. Yuta: I am not sure about the grade. Yuta: I am not sure about the grade, thank you very much. Yuta: I feel like that guy who always talks about grades.

Tomoa: Are you going to do it from the bottom now? Yuta: The mantle was a little scary. Tomoa: Just a little. Tomoa: I am home now. Akiyo: Welcome back. Akiyo: Congratulations on flashing Gakido. Tomoa: Thank you very much. Akiyo: I was surprised.

Tomoa: I was extremely surprised too. Tomoa: The moment I arrived at the location of Gakido Tomoa: and put chalk on and touched the start holds. Tomoa: My first thought was, oh, I probably can’t get off the ground.

Akiyo: Was the left hand a crimp and the right hand a pinch? Tomoa: The left hand is a very think crimp and the right hand is an undercling. Akiyo: Oh an undercling. Tomoa: Yeah, a not very good side pull/ undercling.

Tomoa: The right foot is like a ledge so, once your on it you can pull with the right hand. Tomoa: But once I warmed up and focused I was about to do it. Akiyo: Is the crux move, when you get the thin left pinch and go into the compression move?

Akiyo: the problem is three moves right? Tomoa: The crux is sticking the second hold, after getting the right hand. Akiyo: and the third move is getting the lip right? Tomoa: The second move it the only hard move. Tomoa: The first move is pretty easy.

Akiyo: So it is a one move crux problem. Tomoa: Exactly. Tomoa: That is why it was hard to tell what the grade was. Akiyo: How did it feel to you? Tomoa: I felt that it definitely wasn’t V16. Tomoa: 2 years ago I flashed a V14 called decided.

Tomoa: In terms of bouldering i feel it was harder than that. Akiyo: I guess Decided’s crux is linking the moves and the heel crux. Tomoa: Decided was technical. Akiyo: I guess this time is was a single hard crux move. Tomoa: But Gakido was more my style than Decided.

Akiyo: I guess in Decide the heel is technical but this time it’s just one move. Akiyo: and then once you flashed Gakido you tried the low start. Tomoa: Yeah, I had heard that it was very hard and Murai (Ryuichi) has also tried it.

Tomoa: So I thought I probably won’t be able to do it today. Tomoa: But I did the stand quickly so I thought I would try it. Tomoa: So I messaged Ryuichi and asked him about the moves. He also went out of his way to send a video of he’s beta.

Tomoa: But I ended up doing my own moves from the first try, not what we was trying. Akiyo: So you just asked where the start holds were and then climbed it with your own beta. Tomoa: Yeah.

Tomoa: Murai-kun’s beta was to go from the start like this, and then do one small move and then into the Gakido crimp with the left hand. Tomoa: and then into the undercling and swing the foot over.

Akiyo: So it was 2 extra moves? Tomoa: About 3 extra moves. Murai was trying three moves, but I did it in 2 moves. Tomoa: I started with my hands crossed. Akiyo: So it’s SD but it is not super low down? Tomoa: Yeah. Tomoa: Yeah, but it is super clean.

Akiyo: So what you are saying is that each move is quite far? Tomoa: Not super far, each move is a nice distance. Akiyo: Was the SD also your style? Tomoa: Yes, it was. Tomoa: I am good a crimps that you have to pull towards yourself.

Tomoa: In this area, that you pull inwards towards yourself. Tomoa: So with the SD, I started and then crossed into the crimp like this. Tomoa: So I could pull the crimp towards me.

Tomoa: and then I went into the Gakido start undercling, because I could also pull this towards myself. Tomoa: Getting the foot up from this position was really hard. Akiyo: Wasn’t it hard getting the crystal/ crimp again (Gakido Crux) Tomoa: Yeah that is still the crux.

Tomoa: The first two times the feet broke so I fell. Akiyo: really? Akiyo: Was that the start of Gakido? Tomoa: No. Not the start of Gakido. Tomoa: The foot that I was trying to use when I was linking into Gakido chipped twice.

Tomoa: I feel like if it didnt break I could have done that section in one go. Akiyo: and then once you linked into Gakido, sticking the high crux was difficult? Tomoa: Yeah I fell on the second move of Gakido, when going from the bottom of the SD.

Tomoa: My body came away from the wall and I couldn’t hold it. Tomoa: But I climbed it on like the fifth attempt. Akiyo: First Ascent. Tomoa: It is my second FA of my life. Tomoa: My first FA was a V10 called Sacrifice.

Tomoa: This time I was able to FA an even cooler problem. Akiyo: The boulder is very aesthetic. Tomoa: The SD version is the complete line so. Tomoa: and it is a obvious clean start. Akiyo: Plus there is basically only one line on that boulder. Tomoa: Yeah

Akiyo: What are you going to call it? Tomoa: I am still undecided on the name. Tomoa: I am thinking something-do or a buddhist word . Tomoa: Because I believe Gakido is a Buddhist word. Tomoa: So I want to keep the name in that category. Tomoa: Like Ashurado….. or….. Mujo……

Tomoa: So I am thinking of cool names like that. Tomoa: As for the grade I am thinking that it is 1 grade harder than Gakido (V14). Akiyo: So Gakido is V14 Akiyo: and so the Sd will be V15? Tomoa: V15, but I am still unsure.

Akiyo: Maybe above V15, after discussing with whoever repeats it. Tomoa: I have only every touched one other V15. Tomoa: So I am still a little unsure. Tomoa: But today was a great day. Tomoa: Thank you for watching and thank you for your continued support. Tomoa: Bye~