The opening event of the Paraclimbing season 2024 takes place at Millcreek Climbing in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA, on 7 and 8 May.
🌍 IFSC website: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org
📰 More news: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news
✍️ Subscribe: https://ifsc.hopp.to/ytsub24
🧗 Athletes: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ranking
📅 Calendar: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/calendar
e [Music] [Music] hello and welcome to Salt Lake City for the first paraclimbing World Cup of the year what a spectacle it’s turning out to be here we are qualifying yesterday and now it’s time for the finals temperature outside 20° but of course we are not outside we are inside in this amazing climbing wall and my name is Matt Grom and I’m joined by Sebastian DEA Seb so Sebastian that’s called Sebastian DEA I’m an idiot how are you Sebastian hello Matt nice to be back here again it’s nice to have you as always now look tell us a little bit about this gym because it’s new for us here at the ifsc um what’s it like to climate well the atmosphere is specially here um the walls are really high routs were long demanding up to 60 moves routs we had in qualification and now we see here uh the first two routs of the finals and uh I think there is something exciting hours coming up ahead of us absolutely well we’ve had a look at those routs a range of different grades for a range of different categories and if you’re new to parac climbing we will take you through everything so don’t panic but we’re going to we’ll be slow because we’ve got a A buildup here this afternoon as we get going but Sebastian generally parac climbing is split into categories isn’t it depending on the impairment exactly you see four roots here on the wall and you see signs on the base of them with numbers and figures on it and the thing is we divide the power athletes by the type of impairment so we have 10 different sport classes where we Group by impairment in order that we ensure that there’s a Fair competition where the not the least impaired wins but the one who brings the best performance in comparison to his impairment so that means we have we don’t have for example an L amput athlete climing against someone who was regally impaired okay well Sebastian it’s complicated we’ll go through it more but first first of all we’re going to have a look at the highlights from yesterday’s qualifying round some of the action for you to enjoy [Music] [Music] well there we go that was the action from yesterday and it was an awesome qualification round but brutal as always as we cut the athletes down to our finalists now as we were watching that Sebastian in the background we’re hidden away a bit here but we could hear Happy Birthday ringing through the stadium what Earth’s going on out there yes one of our athletes has his 30th birthday today and he will climb in a few minutes here on the wall what must it be for birthday having the IFC finals in power climbing as a present exactly it’s a pretty good way to spend your birthday you know especially if he gets a gold medal that would be no one’s giv me gold for my birthday yet yeah we we we we don’t know yet but I I would say he’s pretty good medal candidate but we’ll dive into that later we’re talking about uh Benjamin May 4th there his birthday so happy birthday Ben right Sebastian we’re almost underway here talk us through how the power climbing works this afternoon uh because it’s a little different from the Able Body competition but first of all as usual the observation period will come won’t it exactly now we’re waiting for the athletes to uh appear on stage to take the six minutes observation time that they have for the final routs so depending on the sport class you then see your route for the first time they are now in isolation so that no one could see the roots before and within those minutes you go through the route and try to figure out how it could be done we have seen the roots there are quite some hidden features and uh funny things that were invented by our root us and uh yeah we we’ll see how they get through it we had qualifications yesterday with 130 athletes in 15 different sport classes so as I said we have 10 different sport classes depending on the type of impairment and um per agenda that means we we could have 20 sport classes in total overall in finals but um if there are not enough uh participants in the sport class we put them together the to called merging and that’s why we have 15 sport classes here which is quite a lot so that means there are 15 uh medals given uh to the 15 set of medals given to the athletes at the end of this session and there we see our first group of athletes on stage yeah and which groups are we talk about here so uh because it’s just to let you know back at home we have an awful lot of categories here we have 14 categories of people and we start off with the men’s rp3 and women’s rp3 so exactly but this presentation is uh the whole first so we’ve also got men’s rp2 men’s rp1 and women A1 rp1 and rp2 not a lot of RPS exactly so what do that mean yes well exactly what does it mean Sebastian go give us your the te you see it on the back on the wall for example here woman B1 U WB means women or M that means men um so for example B that means the visually impaired um sport classes the B1 B2 B3 the number means the higher the number the less severe is the impairment that means B1 are those who have the least Vision left so they are completely blind and the same is for the other sport classes so always like high number few severe or less severe impairment low number High impairment so and each sport class has its own abbreviation to make it short so that we don’t have to say every time we impaired climbing one that’s good for ex I struggle with words as it is so I don’t want to say too many of them now we have the first check climber to make it through to the finals we just saw him observing on the mat so great to have new nationalities coming through exactly exactly as the sport is growing and growing every time we from the last um World Cup here in in in the US until this time there was also again I think uh more than 30 competitors more this time I don’t know the exact numbers but it’s a significant number of athletes that have more this time every team brings more athletes and new countries also on stage and it’s so nice to have a country who participates for the first time and then also in finals so we have many people here on stage who have their first competition and also climbing for the final in the first time that shows that par climbers are already there we don’t have to build them we just have to find them so when you’re watching this and you know someone who has an impairment and is a let’s say like yeah motivated climber and can do stuff like tell him about us we’re here for you come and join well I know that there’s a lot of excitement among the Czech climbing Community uh inetta one of the World Champ Ice Climbers for example she was sending messages of support so it’s a big deal in the Czech Republic uh and just an example of how much the sport is growing but there’s an athlete USA uh home born born and Brad and tell me a little bit about her because she’s one that could potentially get this gold medal here or she she’s one to watch for sure she’s one to watch was Melissa Ruiz watching the route watching her final route on the left in the left we see big H holds red big holes on the blue section of wall it’s a route which is supposed to be something between 6C 6C plus and this is by the way this the easiest final route that we have on the wall difficulties are adapted by the severeness of impairment so those sport classes who have higher more severe impairments they get easier roots and for sure those who are have let’s say are less limited get way harder routes you say easier we are talking about 6C which is not easy for a lot of people and we go all the way up to 8 a in terms of grades exactly so it’s hard climbing exactly and 88 that’s the grade for those who um who just climb with one leg so the leg amput so that’s for you at home to try to go to your next gym and uh just use one lag on the next X 88 that you can pick there so that’s that might give you a little idea of what’s going on here there we go well we are into this observation period right now now the athletes are trying to work out where to go they’re talking amongst their categories mainly Cu uh there’s not much point reading it between different categories because of the impairments everyone climbs these routes in a different way it is and sometimes for me for example I cannot get that much of a like an idea from other athletes as I have to find my complete own way and the same for many other athletes as well so depending on the type of impairment you have to just observe on your own and find your own way and get your own idea how to solve it can we talk briefly cuz we speak about the athletes cuz you’re a regular in my commentary box let’s be honest we don’t really talk about you too much so what what’s your impairment so I have ankos in spondilitis this is a romatic disease uh inflammations in certain parts of the body lead to fixations so I have fixed spine and hip so I only climb with my shoulders and they are also limited my elbows my wrist and uh then I have my knees and my ankles that’s everything so it’s like imagine you strap together your knees with a sling and then you put this sling around uh your head to bend you down that you can just barely see the Horizon that’s how I walk around how I climb and rumor has it uh that you are cycling across Europe with a solar powered car uh is that correct that is correct yes uh well we can talk about it now yes the idea is um I uh I cannot ride normal bikes uh so I started hand biking which is by the way great training for climbing I grew a lot on my shoulders and I’m so much more powerful this season well it didn’t show in the result say you’re in the commentary Bo I’m not climbing in finals uh but the thing is like in rp1 the density of performance is really high it’s getting higher every year joking you yeah I know I know I know sebas for quite a long time I can definitely take the oh yes and I know every time I meet you the first sent most is something like please don’t like find yeah exactly well you come across the debate but you okay so you are cycling for example to IND thean competition I will try to yes so I had the handbike I converted it to Electric in order to build something which is capable of doing long distances and get the maximum range out of a combination of solar and electric power so and I want to take it to the next level and see how far I can get and the IC competition is the perfect occasion to like to try to go to so we’ll see if I appear in inbrook with a solar handbike I’m coming 1,000 km from Spain but worries me it’s going to be cloudy and you won’t turn up and be in my commentary box what am I going to do there uh I charge from the grid maybe there’s a there’s a there’s a plug options I have it yes goodness it’s just a question of Ethics I want to use it definitely Sebastian I need you don’t leave me hanging right we’re having a look at our finalist here as we’re chatting in the background with this is men’s rp2 lead and Benjamin May 4th qualifying in third place there it was his birthday we sng happy birthday for him earlier on you missed it but uh it was great great two American athletes here Norwegian Dena evic and Jasmine plank of course uh one of the most decorated athletes surely in this collection Austrian so yes this is the first series of athletes and don’t worry Sebastian is going to have a bit of a break from the commentary box we’ve got a few guests lined up including I hope Mr Tim EMT who’s going to pop in and say Hello uh so we’ve got a few people because Sebastian I mean he’s got a life outside of this box and also you’re feeling not not 100% is that right well and I I I think it’s it’s also good to to share the load yes exactly we’re a couple of minutes away everyone and if you’re watching this uh and you want to know the schedule for the last week or so because it’s been busy here in Salt Lake we finished with the able competition the other day so we had the boulder for the men and women and then we had the Speed finals as well we also have been having a series of workshops this week in the TC training center and uh there’s a video of that coming out today as part of the highlights for this show and we should talk about the Climbing Club this is a show we produce every day of ifsc competitions and the idea is to give a little bit back to you guys watching home so we have interviews we have Adam Adam different we have Alex Honnold climbing the yes the final roots for example and then on the par show that’s coming out we have clips from the working session in TC we also have a bunch of behind the scen stuff with power athletes coaches and more so do subscribe to the YouTube channel cuz it’s a good show you saw a bit of it just now you sneak previewed our editor working on it yes exactly but I don’t know on the final result so I will also have a look after oh there we go subscribe as well sebas you bet I already did goodness many years ago so you’re the gold membership well I’m no I would not say I mean my I I started competing in 2017 par climbing competition started in 2011 uh at that time I was already climbing I’m climbing since 98 uh but at that time I was so severe impaired so severe impaired that I could not climb at that moment not competitive and to be honest I was climbing a long time I didn’t know that power climbing existed so I had to be found and I know out there we have more power climbers just don’t know yeah so once again if you see someone if you know someone tell them I by the way I got I got found by Yan Cuda so the bouldering athlete yeah I met him and he saw what I do and he’s like hey s you know actually there’s a comp for you for you like find the German team and go there you belong to them wow and it’s one year later I appeared on the competition stage for the first time and then I knew okay this is my new home see you got lucky cuz you should generally never take suggestions from Yan Kuda that is the the rule but obviously you got okay got lucky I Yan he’s not competing this year and uh he’s I would say like he won an overall boulders title in I think 2018 if I remember correctly yeah how was that in mic and um well he gave me some really good advice at the beginning of my career for example he said to me like um when you’re on the wall the most important have fun and that’s something I remember until now it’s and I always have it in my mind and he said like you’re not climbing against the others you’re climbing with the others and not against the gold you you’re not climbing against the roote against the wall you’re climbing with that what’s on there and he has he has some let’s say different insights on what he was doing there and I think sometimes this is also Yeah the secret to success just with a little bit of competitiveness throwing yes you still you still want to win yeah sure sure but at the moment when you’re there you’re alone and it’s you who can make the difference and when I’m on the wall I don’t think about the others I think about me moment just the next step and a focus in this moment and all the rest doesn’t care and it’s good advice that for any climate to be honest yes well see words of wisdom from Sebastian here now we are I think we’re close to getting underway here not quite sure there’s been a bit of a delay and actually Sebastian while those ropes are hanging off on the left of our screen uh we should talk about ropes cuz there’s a bit of a different rope setup in par it’s basically top rope but there’s double ropes exactly exactly so for safety reasons there’s no lead climbing for example if you have an impairment on one side of your arm uh it might get tricky uh to clip in an overhang by the way many par climbers do Le climbing and that can do that M but uh it’s not possible for everyone for safety reasons there is uh no lead climbing in par climbing so we do it on top rope and if roots are steep or if there are traverses we have this top rope system that means we have two ropes attached to the climber and one is going to Anchor up on top of the route and there’s one lower anchor who catches uh the lower Falls and who also takes care that if an athlete Falls and swings out it’s not crushing for example at the wall at the other side okay well we’ll see this in action in the set because our first two athletes are out Francis from Czech Republic on the right of your screen he was a gentleman we talked about earlier first check athlete to make a par climing final and then and Mana SMA from Slovenia she’s underway so Mana is in women’s rp3 and on the right FR FR is in men’s rp3 as well so exactly Mana is uh climbing now in the rp3 uh sport class but it’s a merged sport class she’s coming from au3 Au means amput uper Lim three means a a very let’s say um a minor impairment in this case it’s a finger impairment she has on one side of her of her arm she has not all the fingers and uh yeah it’s a new sport class which was introduced last season and uh it’s uh nice to see them growing and um because they were before they were climbing together with rp3 this type of enironment but our classifi saw that um so those who take care of who’s climbing Rich sport class that all the classifiers and they saw okay there’s potential to have a new sport class and makes sense to separate them and that’s what we did well both athletes doing well at the moment remember they’re not against each other kind of looks a bit like they’re against each other here but they’re not separate routes separate difficulties and Franc on the right from the Czech Republic doing well hesitating for the first time really it’s about 8A this route and uh cxy section here moving between he’s almost two for like structures you’ll be used to that climbing in space and then on the left that route is so complicated like 3D you kind of want to crawl inside some exactly I think there’s potential to find some rest in there if you can work it out uh the route starts with big Jacks and gets more and more pumpy and more and more slopey towards the top uh it’s supposed to be something around 7 a plus and in competition routs it’s always that a route starts easy and then gets harder and harder towards the top to separate it’s not like a normal gym route which mostly has the same difficulty from bottom to top this competition routes are very different Fran pausing here he’s on a giant Jug on the right hand side but as you can see from this shot up to crimps and he’s deciding on different beater here going out right with a right hand drag Crossing through that’s a big move for him definitely the volume really pulls him pushes him out of the wall and yeah what what must it be for feeling so we lose uh on the left yeah What a Feeling to be uh first Finals first CL opening this final round in the first par climbing World Cup of the Season presenting cck here for the very first time and Par climing he’s doing well as well he’s locking off this left Crim trying to squat down on that left foot but he just needs to get the body weight under to shake out and I think he’s looking to bring a palm or something up underneath now he’s thinking about which way to go and try butt oh three quars way out that a good first run and and an idea of that this route definitely builds that AJ indeed indeed so the first climber out is the last one qualifying so those who come after him have the better qualifying result and uh we’ll see how they perform if they can get further on the route very interesting to see it’s going to be fascinating he’s breathing hard here our first athlete and Mana as well she fell about three4 way up that route on the L too now uh in the next women’s rp3 class Laura heon not here here uh some issue with ISO so we will scrip straight to Mariana Diaz who is on stage there I think she won in Salt Lake last year so uh defending her I’m pretty sure anyway I remember interviewing her so defending her her gold medal I think so there she is from Brazil great to have Brazilians in the house and then for the men uh from also another Brazilian athlete will be eigo Jean M stick with Marina cles up team Brazil together on stage no teammates right which always must be nice I mean you know the person you’re walking out with at least so you get a little bit maybe of a chance to relax or ease your way into it with a friend that unless they hate each other that case it’s a terrible thing you never know spreading drama here in the com no we don’t I try sometimes got to stir the pot sometimes so Marina making quick work down low nice and easy deep through the bottom big JS there on the volumes the root Sid has were they try to guarantee that uh no matter which side is infected from your impairment the the route is equal for everyone and that’s hard to do I mean sets have a hard enough job anyway but they got to set multiple uh routes for multiple different impairments to make sure no one is unfairly pen so complaining about uh Boulder Setters or lead Setters have have an idea of how hard these guys are working it’s tough definitely definitely and they try really hard to make it even for everyone and they’re trying to mimic us for example and they’re climbing just with on one side with one hand and the other side just with the elbow for example or also visually impaired in order to make sure that really works that for example moves are not too richy here that’s why you see in this route um the hold are quite close together and women rp3 this is not that much of an issue not at all but as we just have four final routs but uh more than 10 is 14 or 15 sport classes climbing on the wall 14 that means that uh many sport classes have to share the same route and it has to work for everyone yeah which is outrageous in terms of difficulty so World on sets working so far ego making his way up on the right of your screen there into the first of the Crux sequences for the men and then for the women uh she’s doing well here big moves though through this little change in angle on the wall and a fall yeah L like for a second she was struggling there and does fall but a knee bar in on the right hand side as well we knew that was there and possible but he’s used it [Applause] well and we stick with him as he makes his way way upwards and just to confirm Marina is the current world champion so there we go see my brain work for once it’s rare that Sebastian I tell you I’ve only had three coffers as well big moves out this is where the Crux of this route is this protruding like thing and he’s done quick work of it moving very fast up towards the blocked crimp this is where we saw the P from the Czech athlete yeah very interesting to see how he solves it so ah he’s dressing a different way with the lower right hand chocking up pretty good heel with the left blocking himself against the wall now switching feet and trying to get up but looking already a bit uncomfortable let’s see how he can solve it definite crocy sequence we saw FR fall here as well he goes too but I think we should be slightly ahe you to countback depending on where the judges give yeah it depends if they give him the plus so how does the ranking work Max the rank I should talk about it I should know so basically you start at the bottom you finish at the top every hold is worth a numerical score as in like it adds up so 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 uh and then you get a plus for using the hole to going towards the next hold moving a center of mass and hands towards the next one you can’t just slap at it as you fall backwards you got to make a positive movement towards it exactly so sometimes if I know I’m not going to make it I just do a let’s say like M jump in the direction of the next hole just showing like okay please go give him the Applause can’t get away with that anymore Sebastian you you got you got to be better got to go towards it now Nat verell is out loving the pink hair yeah it’s it’s sometimes that they can make a big decision if you try just to do the jump to get the Plus or if you just let it go so it’s always remember try to get the Plus at the end and I think you want to challenge the judges you know you kind of want to prove to them that you’re making that positive movement and leave nothing to to sort of interpretation exactly exactly but KN seems to be struggling a little bit down low here there are big moves under the undercling but for the first time we’ve seen an athlete really hesitate low down on this route yeah it can happen I mean never know the person of condition in this moment at that time uh also very important is that you get a good start in the route sometimes uh you just don’t find the red rhythm in the route I I think it’s always important that those first few meters work C in a good way so that you feel comfortable that you find your flow and then continue I mean we had we had sometimes really seen athlet struggling the first few meters and that this will kick in your adrenaline so hard and then it’s really hard to like uh calm back down later and find the right flow composure to perform in best way and she seems to have recovered a little bit after that moment of hesitation more positive now and on the right we haven’t talked about him at all we Luke Smith from Great Britain making his way pretty quickly through this route I think that 8A definitely starts much easier and then suddenly cranks up the difficulty exactly from here from this jug really it’s like a route two ARS exactly Luke Smith has a on condition where he has um limited um flexibility in his left ankle so um if you compare his two legs the left one is uh less less uh developed than the other and that um yeah leads to limited um flexibility and um ways he can use it but um so this this is the rp3 category those impairments are mostly just minor it’s uh hard to spot they are there they are there and the athletes have to be creative to find a way around it to uh deal in the best way with that and Luke Smith making great demonstration of what his capable of doing here they boting we just remind everyone are neurological or physiological impairment look at this from Luke Smith reaching up high past the Crux for the first time exactly and just making look like there is no issue at all falls on the left it’s all go suddenly things ramping up now this though this Spike I looked at this and I was like I want to climb that section you know it just looks so cool so 3D yeah my my first thought like was this is a good reason to take a hmet with you yeah the athletes can wear helmets you do don’t you when you clb exactly because of that um and some uh really need to because for example they have had injuries or conditions where like they they should not get a slap against their hand in any way so just to be to ensure that it’s not going to have like serious consequences some athletes will H we see it later on in the finals it’s uh up to the athletes to decide on uh what they need there and uh yeah I for example also use it in order not to get um into bad interaction with the ropes MH yeah cuz there’s more ropes in action athletes can get tangled up sometimes obviously we the belayers especially the team down there right now fist bumps all around they do an incredible job Tai there on the right is one of the foremost experts in blay he was doing workshops during the world Champs and uh yeah the whole team though down there is and Tim as well should shout him out there on your screen just a very experienced uh BL exactly and they’re doing a great job it’s uh they have to take care big time and uh be laying with the double top prop system is uh not it’s a it’s different um be layers are giving always a bit of slack so that there’s no like help or interaction from the Rope but uh they also have to make sure that if someone Falls low that no one touches the ground we have mats here uh to ensure that if someone for example just falls from the first not getting injured they good mats is uh it’s nice this is uh Tadashi Tano from Team Japan team Japan brought a massive Squad to this yes oh yes oh yes big team always a very strong team not just an Able Body Al power climbing climbing quickly through the first moves here I have a story about the Japanese uh visually impaired team which I’ll say when they come out let’s just say Thailand and they kicks my ass okay but we’ll talk about that later okay right tad just to tempt you in if you’re listening on the massive holes down low it’s like a sort of bucket and look at the athleticism as he Springs his way through that opening sequence zero hesitations positive climbing also like um Luke Smith climbing before um Tadashi has a left leg impermanent he had cancer in his knee and uh due to that he has limited power and coordination in his left leg know so he always tries to uh solve the problems with his right good side and uh yeah yeah you can see a little bit the awkwardness with that left leg you know it doesn’t Bend in the same way as the one on the right exactly you just have to make I mean look I say that as he wax heel look you know clearly proving me wrong but you know it’s those kind of impairments the athletes just have to sort of deal with I mean it’s the lot you’ve got and they climb to such a high level it’s incredible they can uh do with the impairment exactly so he uses it but he has not the full range as he has with the right side so that actually taking a little rest there because before it doesn’t jump so precise yeah he’s like a little a tiger out there just Springs towards the holes it’s really good to watch actually I’m I’m learning a bit from this this Dynamic style is great to see and cruising through the cruxs as well what cruxs the first cruxs doesn’t appear to be there for him this is good work from Tadashi at the moment looking like the one to beat out last of course they qualifying at first for this position and he might be climbing himself into a gold medal here he’s very close now he is he is now taking a little rest there you see him breathing hard that’s a great shot he wants the crowd behind him for support there we go thumbs up and uh clearly an athlete who’s feeling relaxed definitely I’m just wondering if he could just climb behind it and do some kind of shoulder jamming resting there he’s having a look isn’t he I don’t yeah I know what you mean yeah I’m sure you could block your hip somewhere there somehow Well he kind of shoved a hip in there a little bit to make the move but not I know what you’re talking about right well he’s above it now he can’t go underneath it he’s he’s got to commit to the moves I mean he’s nearing the top as well of this 88 now this is hard though a blocked sort of side pull I did ask whether you can jam it the Setters just shook their head so you crack fados it’s not one of those but he’s one move away left hand up just needs to bring his foot up matches that is our first top there he is The Winner thehi Takes Victory great work from him and have you got confirmation of the women’s results for rp3 Sebastian I know you’ve got a I’m asking you cuz you got the computer out and you’re looking very technical over there where as I’m a chaotic mess surrounded by paper but if you could just check who won women’s rp3 please I’m on great IM like a second this is brilliant I need you in my everyday life Tadashi hops down you see that left leg bending there fist bumps awesome from him and a big smile exhausted happy athlete out on the mat right who is when oh he’s got it for me Nat verel there we go thanks Sebastian andk goodness you’re here keeping me straight 45 plus was Nat score Marina Das after that oh there we go results as we speak to Dashi taking the top with a top good work from him and for the women Sebastian found it before our team could na veral on the top spot Marina Diaz and Mana smer after that2 plus right first two categories done Sebastian how’s the voice and first top of the day yes that’s exactly what the roers want to see I said like we want to see Four Tops to B so look we’re St into Emily uh say it again s thank you uh underwe Team USA so tell me a bit about what RP 2 so RP category we know but two is the level of impairment yeah the level of impairment is higher here so they’re climbing on the very left line which is supposed to be something around 60 60 plus so um this route is uh demanding but uh has lots of features here solid overhang big holds but she’s already struggling and falling sadly it’s so awkward through that cuz the volume’s push you backwards away from the wall exactly so it’s rout set us this way also make sure that once this route is campused for example by those who are uh weer based manikandan Kumar who’s I love saying his name is awesome uh he’s on the right he’s underway in the background as Emily gets back in the chair gets unbelled and she will leave the stage so talking about uh manikan he’s one of our like uh really really old and experienced athletes old meaning he’s climbing now in the IFC par climbing circuit for 13 years he started in 2012 see we say veteran or experienced old just sound old people call me old no experienced yeah no one ever said man you’re experienced no no I’m old it’s uh he’s one of those who were there from almost the very beginning we started with IC par clim in 2011 and manik Kanan has been at so many competitions as he s he has seen a lot well he’s up on the wall Melissa Ruiz comes on we talked about her earlier she’s defending her crown as well from last year and she will get tied on and ready to go Melissa has a CP mostly affecting her legs so uh she will show us an impressive climbing Style with brutal force brutal force I like this is selling it to me here now remember Manny Candon is up on the wall on the right and here we see Melissa taking the last moments of preparation athletes have by the way 40 seconds from the moment we get tied in before we have to start in the route So In This Moment it’s time to take a deep breath look at the route and to just start as I said brutal force is the climbing style of Melissa and there you see what she’s doing legs optional for the first few movements now taking a short rest and orientation in the route and now starting with the more overhanging part okay well she’s underway through this section I love the way the root Setters have created this sort of uh thing to stand on for them here exactly they did it they told us in order for the those who are campusing the route are a bit like pushed off the wall that no one’s banging his knees against the wall there is Manny Canden good to see him about halfway up uh nearing nearing the head wall actually of the wall here it’s like hard pulls off her left hand and Ru is cassing her way through that’s what I said brutal force now she using the legs as she has CP she has very like limited control over her legs so she has to like find a way and sometimes it’s just quicker to campus instead of sorting out the legs especially if it’s overhanging absolutely well we flick between cameras and Manny Canden keeps climbing on the right and Ruby’s I mean I’d say resting but it’s not very restful look immediately Cuts now she looks okay I take the next one and campus again and the next one she’s looking to swing her leg back in somehow but oh she’s yeah the right is better for her for sure taking a little rest this way chalking up again oh Manny Canon falls from the top but a good uh first clim remember he’s the first athlete out on rp2 men’s rp2 so we’ll have to wait and see with that score Melissa Riz though oh oneh handed just dangling above the crowd about 12 M up here on this wall he’s looking so relaxed hang in there just grabbing for the next hole incredible not taking a swing trying to get the leg on the volume down below but the core required to lift a legs up through that it’s going to be burning her out a bit definitely but she still looks so relaxed and she’s looking right towards the jug wraps the hand back and deep into that orange hold Cuts loose one armed again as she swings above the crowd she’ll have a little look for the next hold little adjustments with the left bumps around the corner [Applause] now she needs to do a big swing which she does again how has she got the shoulders for this but now it’s a one armor basically Sebastian right up over that lip definitely trying to match but that’s going to get tricky has to have has to she has to get her right hand a bit further to the right now trying to get the leg in place oh she’s really starting to struggle here she tries to find some kind of perchase that left foot can’t again and I think she just needs to bump and go here but the energy will be draining away from those arms and she does fall what a performance that was a good effort there right so we are our two done for women’s rpt yeah Melissa can be so proud of her and uh she’s not just doing competition climbing she’s also doing a lot of things outside trying to do big wall climbing wow and other Avengers so really how big bigall we talking you SE big Yes W yes yes you can look it up she’s she’s done really lots of impressive stuff and um there are more par clammers who do not just do uh climbing on artificial walls so uh Philip for example rosak here from Team Germany my teammate and friend also one of us who does a lot of outdoor climbing I for example also do a lot of mostly I just train outside because of the avability of gyms Philip looks a little bit nervous here what’s his General approach how does he sort of take these competitions Philip you have to know as a past as a climber he was once he was also in the German Able Body um selection and uh he had a car accident um he was climbing up to 9A Plus in the past wow and uh yeah and he had a car accident and uh well he he could have died actually but luckily he survived and uh has a serious neurological impairment and found his way to deal with it and is here on stage with us Min on the left that is Dena uh evic from Team Norway she’s uh out of the chair onto the wall and again this structure down low just creating this pillar at the beginning but she’s easy I mean it is ladderlike down low let’s be honest but it can throw you off a bit as an athlete when suddenly there’s a 3d3 when you expect to veral wall definitely it can it can be confusing for the first few moves and uh but you could sit on top but no one does so far not yet it’s it’s quite low down to have a sit but I would if I was out there why not exactly photographer’s dream right Philip is doing well uh cruising through the bottom nice positive moods from him presume you’re in the Airbnb this morning wherever you’re staying did you have breakfast with that man I did what what was his breakfast uh Choice here I want to Dish the dirt on the athletes foran the secrets the secrets of the German uh Team the secret of the German Team all right so there is a secret all right get no everyone chooses whatever he likes so we have we have we have fixed roles in our team so we have the we have someone who’s responsible for cooking it will appear later on stage by the way so it’s an al2 it’s uh but look how fast he’s doing these moves between the crims I mean he’s barely paused and on the left oh but now he pauses the left leg was that more of a I think it was a foot slip yeah foot slip with the left and then loses it it goes stick with Dena here who’s wrestling her way around this big volume trying to get something back with that right toe and a very high right foot as well almost jamming it between the holes this is so awkward for an athlete this definitely and sometimes those volumes are really in your way yeah pushing it back she’s got the Rope to do with you can see the Rope pushing between a pinky finger not IDE think not idea not at all so she’s got to flick the hand and slid out I think just too much went on there at the same time for her to deal with is it and pretty pumped yeah pretty sure at that time already we make our way through halfway through men’s rp2 four athletes competing in there and then uh almost at the end of women’s rp2 just Jasmine plank to come out for [Applause] [Music] them so do let us know if you’re watching back home uh Sebastian next to me is on Instagram you can check out his Instagram on the ifsc channel or my channel so you can uh check him out give him a follow while you’re here and there is Jasmine plank rolling her way on from the right of the screen bit of a preworkout going on there warm up I would say I hope she is but don’t get pump Matt Matts and uh Matts and Wiz are never a good combination so good that the volunteers are helping here yeah because you don’t want to get pumped before you start the rout abolutely right Jasmine jacket off business time for her she’s ready to go meanwhile climbing for the men is Benjamin so happy birthday Benjamin 30 years old today doesn’t look a year past [Applause] 29 let’s see if he can make himself a Podium as a birthday present today yeah what a prize that would be gold medal on your birthday and Benjamin more than capable of doing it as well definitely but he did not qualify as the best there’s still one coming after him so let’s see what Benjamin is capable of doing here he was telling me uh Missing ribs on his right hand side means that he’s just got slightly more limited motion on the right this route now will Traverse over to the left though but this is the cross through Section and there are endless cross throughs on this route look at this no feet solves it easily so Benjamin has speed and leads to um let’s say limited uh um flexibility in his legs and also spine limited uh strength and that’s what the RP categories limited range Power or movement or sometimes a combination of all of them so impairments can be very different but we all compete together on a comparable level and it’s interesting to see in which way the athletes are going to solve it each one has a slightly different way to do it and that makes it really interesting yeah and Jasmine plank is approaching cruy sequence here on the right of your screen Benjamin made his way easily through the cross throughs but he’s got more to come as you can see and Dina working her sorry Jasmine working her way up here little swing of the legs this is where things start to get problematic though because You’ got to get those feet in your waist over this section she is doing well she’s got a little knee in there as well for a second and Benjamin almost climbing out of our screen on these pinches towards the top of the wall cruising his way upwards look at this good skills from the birthday near the top as well and you can hear the crowd getting behind the USA athlete he’s a move away are we about to see a top from Ben come on Ben oh it’s a big Dino not quite so one move away from Benjamin may4 which might be enough what a performance happy birthday Benjamin I think he’ll uh take that as a birthday gift but he’ll have a nervous wait with Ian to go meanwhile we stick with Jasmine plank who is still going jman take a little rest there it’s overhanging definitely but she seems to get some rest out of it now continuing yeah these matches it’s not too bad here but you’ve got another volume awkward volume coming up where you got to make your way around it again it is tricky this sequence left toe digging that right leg shaking CU see the effort up with the left hand see Jasmine has to deal with pestic and serious neurological condition which affects legs almost the whole body and uh now even she told me now it even starts to be more severe on her hands and arms she falls over the lip of the head W waves goodbye and I think that is the win that’s more than enough for her she’s uh I’m pretty sure it’s the high point on that one but we’ll get confirmation the SEC because we through the end of the women’s rp2 Evan to go for men’s rp2 from Spain the last athlete out on that tricky 8 a route we’ll see that in a sec now if you are just joining us well we’re a couple couple of categories into our power climbing comp here in Salt Lake City new venue new gym and it’s been a spectacle so far really enjoying the climbing and so far good routs not really uh unfavor anyone this is Evan here and again one of our more veteran perhaps even making prog guys on the first meters of the route you see on the left the lower anchor the lower top rope and uh so he already passed that point the lower rope is going to catch him if he swings to the back if he falls that’s the double too system we were talking earlier about to prevent big swings and also ground falls in the very beginning of the route that’s the system which is just used in par climbing so it’s something when you’re new to competitions you have to train a bit and to to get used to it in order not to tangle yourself up or for example pass the first anchor in the wrong way and then really block yourself all right so he is climbing his way through uh oh my goodness where are we now we’re in different categories of this now it’s rp1 men starting so Glen Todd now from te Australia first appearance in a com yeah I chat to him in isolation about that left shoulder you can see how heavily taped it is he did kind of hurt it during qualies on Route One took a lot of painkillers did route two and I said well you just don’t worry about it for the finals he was like nope I’m going to forget about it and I’ll deal with the pain later on so fair play with a big smile on his face he might pop in and say hello after his com after his run as well so we can chat to him hopefully yeah Glenn has also CP seral partsy affecting his right side so he has less coordination and Power on that side so meaning the steering commands from the brain and not arriving there where they should and uh this way he has to do way more with his left side and another example for someone who is obviously climbing on a high level and now being introduced to par climbing a long way coming from Australia here to the US it is so I’m just looking at his ropes about I’m slightly concerned it’s kind of Twisted but he might yeah he’s just a little bit entwined in that so that’s what you were talking about this rope management thing exactly that’s I think he sorted it out better though anyway keep an eye on Evan as well on the right cuz he is muring up this route onto the pinches at the top big drop knee as well exactly my basic my rule for the ROP is like Ian always tried to keep the upper rope in between your arms now this is nearing the point where Benjamin fell this move so if he can top it out he’s going to take gold in fact if he just makes his move he’s going to take gold at least he gets the Plus for it oh what a that’s massive and that should be the gold medal for him celebrating at the top Ian will win gold just beating Benjamin Maple who couldn’t top that route out and if he had countback would have counted okay Glenn has sorted that rope out now all good as he moves through but this section we know from the women’s is probably the hardest series of moves shakes out with that sore shoulder he has there you can see the strapping on it [Music] Glen told me um depending on this event he decides on if he wants to try to get to the other WIS this season and I would say Glenn you’ll have to come yeah Arco I mean come on the pizza and ice cream available then at the end of the year exactly and the last World Cup of the Year Arco is also its history because this is where it all began in 2011 and then we would come back to the place where it all started you’re looking forward to that right at the end as you say Sebastian well he reaches up high into a good jug with the left hand but looking a little bit fatigued as he hangs on that left arm as he his right side grabbing up that’s the part of his body where has less coordination and strength already struggling a bit but moring onto the next hole come on Glenn losing feet but sorting it out out now trying to get the next thing dialed in but big hold there but steep overhang yeah and it’s an issue with he’s got his feet in he’s hanging off in two good jugs but from here on you just got to launch and go maybe struggling here a bit the feet trying to get the best position there oh he makes a move though up with the left hand got to match it which he does maybe he was just pausing to get a little bit back down low which hopefully he’s done now because this is good work from Glenn scrunches his body into the corner pressing between the volume and the blue wall he’s almost sitting isn’t he on that hole that right yeah he’s he’s blocking it with his uh right leg a bit I hope he can get some rest out of it it’s always when you have those big holes and features there are always options that you have to search for well he didn’t quite find enough to get back but that was a pretty solid uh performance for the first climber out in the sport class so uh the next ones following have to like have to get there first he didn’t seem intimidated his first World Cup done and dusted let’s have a look at the men’s rp2 results even we saw him top out the root stunning stuff from him Benjamin May for a silver medal on his birthday that’ll have to do and your teammate philli in third place and manikandan in fourth and for the women’s jazz in Plank with 50 plus easily ahead of Dena evic for Silvera and Emily after that for the bronze medal in 33 so that’s some of the results so far and that’s our crowd and good to see a big crowd here in the climbing wall as I said this is a new location this year we’re right up in the foothills of the mountains the snow covered mountains here in Salt Lake City which has been I it’s been cold Sebastian I’ve seen snowflakes every day here I only last night worked out how to turn the uh heating on in my room okay so I’ve been freezing for about four days and it wasn’t complicated let me just make it clear it was one switch that I didn’t press but you know I’m a fool right uh tuua ok from Team Japan he has a neurological condition which affects his brain so uh he has then less motor control and strength in the whole body it he told me it depends also on the day and the conditions if worse or uh if you can handle it in a better way but the thing is takuya is one of those athlet where think after 5 m oh this is going to end soon he’s starting to shake but then he goes on yeah I’ve had a few don’t be too worried I I I worry every time I see an athlete like that terrifies me so you’ve warned me though so I can calm myself down a little bit exactly so takuya getting around the first volume yeah it’s interesting what you said about uh good days and bad days you it’s worth remembering that that these parac climers not every day is the same for you exactly sometimes it depend on could you get enough rest how did you sleep what’s the temperature right their temperature dependent impairment levels which things very complex yeah very complex and sometimes you’re climbing in bright Sun mhm and then I mean when I landed here everything was covered in snow a few days ago now it’s 20° outside well yes I mean it’s still fairly chilly out there but you are right but I mean look we’re indoors so we’re regulated in here but yeah the TR the travel back and forth I mean there’s a lot going on isn’t it exactly to C wrapping those hands around he did look a bit shaky down low seems to have settled into it now it’s that right foot across the left foot standing on that big tubular like hold you see already a bit this shaky movement style that he has but don’t worry he will go on during for days for this man little bit of drop KN with the left gets the hand up really steep section here as you can see leaning way back above our [Applause] crowd good work from him just Mido in gets a right leg flagging out on the right from getting a little rest there in the place checking out not thinking cross through that’s a hard isn’t it got to make room for your hand and arm as he unwraps and goes right that’s not a great hold he’s on there better to come if he can cross through once more or bump the right hand maybe sorting out the legs a bit further to the right and now let’s see he matches and the next one should be way better yeah can’t hang around here there’s not a lot of rest to be had until you get up onto the more vertical sectiona searching for a left foot can’t find it needs to get the right up instead looks for the higher one he’s not on anything at the moment just a smear now gets it on the jib crosses high above his head wrapping that hm in but this is tricky for him he’s having to really [Applause] fight but getting there there’s still some way to go to match the result of Glenn M but takuya is on the way yeah he’s threw that bulge now just hope you got enough in the arms to make another couple of moves and he will sort of be able to have a a brief pause a shake out at least so taka is the only climb on the wall now two more coming from the sport class RP one is the impaired impairment in in in stability range and power it can be to different conditions neurological physiological Falls going up to the purple hold started to struggle once he got through the overhang had to keep going and yeah I don’t think that’s as high as Glenn so Glenn in the top spot at the moment let’s wait for the result the officials yeah because results can be appealed remember and uh and sometimes we might miss something how dare you suggest such a thing I don’t think I’ve ever missed anything in my life I’ve definitely made some mistakes in my time you are right the best I remember I I assigned the gold medal to the wrong person did you on stream yes forgot that someone else will follow after well it’s easy to do I’ve uh I’ve done similar climers don’t you worry and I’m meant to be the professional as well you’re you’re an athlete well tea is done we’re halfway through me rp1 Alo from France ala is out next two to go for that category and in the meantime we have confirmation that we lost takuya before Glenn that means first World Cup for team Australia rp1 Glen to and also the first medal oh yeah guaranteed to Bron right yes guaranteed the bronze at least depending on the other two starters to come out so here we see Al poier from teams France aloise is also quite new to the competition scene uh not competition General he already competing for many years on National level but appearing in the last season for the first time and dominating the rp1 definitely so let’s see how Al is yeah he’s underway on this pill Al is also one of those with a neurological impairment which affects the whole body with a limited motor control and strength how do you judge something like that in terms of classification must be tricky uh the classifiers yeah that’s that’s a that’s a very good question so classifier have defined for different types of empowerment different testing cataloges so the athletes have to perform tests and based on those testing results they assign the sport class also there’s not just an assessment with our medical experts after the class assessment with the classifiers those athletes are observed during the competition and there our classifiers see if the level or type of impairment that they assess before with bench test Etc matches with that what they see on the wall so if you let’s say want to be creative and pretend something in the assessment with the classifiers trust me our classifiers they’ll find can can find drastic measures and that can go up to disqualifying you after the qualific session there we go serious and we have seen that not in this competition but uh it happened um also it can it can happen just that classifiers just just missed something or or or an impairment just appears in a different way on the wall than it did in the tests before also because those rules in classification they are made on a desk aside the competitions right and in competitions you always see new athletes coming to the field and you see new types of impairment new forms of impairment hang on what are you talking here look at this high heel from L here cuz he’s been good with the heels but loses it keeps it wow incredible he’s trying to get that heel back in this is really on the edge for him stretching you see his you see his problems with coordinations but never mind he just goes for it that was a real moment for him there but that heel it was so high I I think it might been an error but he you know he managed to pull it save it for the brink of uh well for him maybe it was the only solution that he can do because he say okay the the lower right for example the foothold if he said that’s if that’s too far out to the right for him then this is the only way for him to go so for us it might look like he missed something but maybe this is just the solution for him very good point yeah um so in par climbing sometimes it’s it’s hard to judge if something was wrong or right or did he miss something um and Al is trying to cross through here again another really there you see his coordination issues but never mind he just tries the other way oh that’s actually a foothold yeah exactly switching hands a almost losing it Alise now being at 37 the ranking you see on the left yeah got to get 44 plus that was a real fight he’s doing incredible showing also the performance from Glenn up there second place though now for alas potier reaches up high with the right hand seems to have recovered a bit from those two moments we saw down low now looking down to the crow 43 he’s nearing his High Point talking means thinking as I T to say yeah very true and this could be provisional goal for this man if he makes a couple more moves look at the scoreboard 44 got to make that plus and now it is the goal for him with uh one to go proval go exactly yeah it’s not guaranteed big reach around that volume with my teammate cinan following after but let’s focus on Alois for the moment’s already got his bets in here all right big moves through the volume he’s nearing the head wall this is another tricky krupy section as you make Transition in angle here the feet underneath you you can’t really see them it’s hard to find searches for that right hand it’s somewhere that’s all he’s on that small crimp you see those fingers great shot gradually unwrapping loses the right foot again C drama here he needs to somehow get a left on something make a big move but no Falls loses the hand on the left but what if fight didn’t what a performance that was everything there he gave gave us a huge amount of exciting moments out on the wall he lowered down and provisional gold right your teammate then coming up next at least silver mhm at least silver for him so uh I mean clearly you’ve got your bets in for your teammate is this his style of B no it’s it’s would be very interesting to see because uh cinan and aloise never competed against each other before because cinan had to pause the last season for health reasons he recovered and he’s back now this season cabin is competing already also for many years many medals many titles and he’s in good mood thumbs up to the crowd that’s Goan cinan by the way he had an accident he was a car drove over him and because he slipped on ice Agnes he slipped on ice yes fell into the road and the car drove over him exactly horrendous uh he survived and he’s he’s someone who he’s a lucky guy he’s always always a smile always joking and uh he’s one of those examples where I say like no matter what happens he just moves on and that’s it life has Adventures for us and it depends on what your answer to that very true see Sebastian in the commentary box giving us words to live our life by him well his teammate is underway and he’s got to get high up on this wall to take that gold away from alas poier Glen Todd still in silver medal provision provisional Place guaranteed at least a bronze from his first World Cup yeah let’s go back to the philosophical part with Sebastian in the commentary box you know you know the thing is if you have an impairment you have lots of time to think think about these things and one of the things which comes up mostly is like okay what is this up for me what does it mean why is it me what am I going to do with this and everyone of us has to think about that and to find a way with that and uh the arst we see here have great answers to that and I always say like they are all winners just because they are here because they’ve gone through through so much impairments EX and diseases sometimes also War terrorism which leaves traces which leaves traces on on those people and yeah they decided to move on to keep climbing or to start climbing and now they’re here on stage yeah he’s got Crux to come hasn’t he in this section here really pushing him backwards on the wall well thank you for your wise word Sebastian as I feel like we need a podcast or something with you Inspire us I’m always hop to that of course you are well he’s got some tricky moves to come though and resting well before he launches into this sequence because he needs something in the arms kinan looked confident on the way around this bul volume there taking a little rest there by the way kinan you see him he uses two chalk backs for the simple reason as his limited flexibility on the back would not allow him to have one plus we’ve seen a lot of people drop chalk lights it’s a back just in case you she needs to do this beat lcan last year the back the backup CH you got to do it maybe something that a body climbing can learn from L have a backup CH twice to beat aukan last year so it can you know I think it’s smart I’m going to I might adopt this as a method my solution would be attached to the harness and not using the extra Loop by the way that’s a genius idea but many people don’t do I I for example I don’t like it to have this extra Slinger on my he’s in provisional bronze here four and3 so up on the podium and maybe for the first time looking a bit tired cinan is also one of them who has endless power and endless endurance as his impairment affects his coordination he might look in trouble but he actually is not Second Place Silver medal and as I said it will very interesting to see how Alois and cion are in terms of performance in comparison he’s got this bulge to come he’s very close to taking the gold medal though couple moves he won’t know how close he is though but the crowd will give him some indication as they Roar him up here we wait for the score to be updated he must be now and yes he is that’s gold medal Sebastian’s won his money back but he just Falls there on 52 but enough for the goals congratulations good good bet that one Sebastian yeah but it’s it’s a safe bet with kinan if you look up his competition results world champion many times many World Cup wins many podiums I think if I look back in his history only three times he did not make it now is he Hang on we’re looking him lying here is he okay yes he’s okay and you see the smile on his face he is a happy guy as the camera Zooms in he’s asking himself what did I do there but trust me he’s fine he’s just exhausted yeah we do sometimes see that when par athletes come off the wall through various reasons don’t panic if you’re watching at home now getting fist bums and congratulations from the team there you see two coaches on the left Kristoff Reichard or our coach and on the left uh you see one of the everybody coaches by the way who assists here and he’s here with the other athletes and uh confirmation here there he is cor Frank gold with 52 L patier and then Glen Todd first World Cup getting the bronze to f after that now Sebastian I know you wanted to do up to this point and then go and have a little bit of a break um we’ve got Tim EMT we’re searching for Mr Tim EMT so if you stay with me a little bit longer I would stay until you have the next one year so cinan taking gold after his season pause last year and meanwhile we see the next group of athletes now we’ll start with the visually impact climbing so women B one B2 B3 and we have men B2 and B3 and Men B1 so three different sport classes competing now on stage our vision impair timers they have in comparison to all the other mamers have so-called side guides mhm meaning they have radio headsets and a guide on uh the ground who give them instructions on where to go now there are a couple of things that have changed with this category in terms of rules one is that uh in the past there’s been different site guides uh for multiple athletes now we only have one site guide per athlete for obvious reasons so uh information can’t be passed on and also technology seems to have caught up with us because everyone has to use a radio now there’s no more shouting up at the wall Sebastian exactly that’s bad for the sensation but it’s good for the athletes because now then you don’t get distracted if you have multiple vision impaired athlete coming at the same time so we had to move on there that’s why we enforce the rules it was time let’s be honest it was time yes and I say we because I’m in the in the par climbing commission at the IFC I’m chair of the commission and so to say directing and helping with the development of the sport so I’m the one who takes all the feedback and all the things together in the commission we have athlete representative we have coaches Representatives we have root Setters we have classifiers and we have experts and we all together we see what’s happening in our Sport and we then give directions give recommendations and trying to make the next step with the sport and bring us on the road hopefully to La 28 the par Olympic Games fingers crossed for that we will know fairly soon and right now we’re watching the sight guide and athlete you can see literally kind of guiding the mo the movements trying to get the uh body positions the hand sequences into their memory their Consciousness somehow and of course this will it’s almost like a team element in uh visually impaired climbing because you do have to have a very close relationship with your site guide you you have to trust them number one and uh you have to uh yeah you have to make sure that they help you through the roots and that’s a lot of responsibility I wouldn’t want to be a side the side guide has to be clim for sure and also be able to climb the roots because he has to read the roots and I think you can only read a good route if you can also climb it read the moves and then explain it to your athlet you have to know the athlet and to know what are his preferen what are his capabilities if you cannot do a split you cannot ask him to do one right for example just a very basic example and we have some classic I mean show it for example oh I can tell my uh my my visually impaired uh Japanese par clim oh yes so I was in Thailand over Christmas time climbing tonsai Beach which is an amazing place to go climbing Japanese par team were there the visually impaired athletes really destroying the beach like like it was outrageous what they were doing like some of my mini projects they were doing like you know hard hard I mean I’m not saying I’m climbing up but they were trying 8B routs they were on roofs the lockoff ability of some of these and this is lead climbing lead yes I know there was no real guidance there was no radios out there and every imagine imagine you’re leading a r and you don’t see the Quick Draw where you’re going to all the next holds like it’s not that the quick R is around the corner and you cannot physically see it yeah because it’s hidden no it’s scary enough you don’t see where you are what you do and where you go exactly well look Sebastian on the end of that story we’re going to swap you out for at least a bit because we have uh Tim EMT in the commentary box so Sebastian thank you as always for joining me you’re welcome maybe you can pop back if you get bored later on and say hello all right I’ll see you soon I’ll be around I you e for OB [Applause] right ladies and gentlemen well I am back in the commentary box with a gentleman who doesn’t really need any introduction but I’ll introduce him anyway because in the commentary box is Tim EMT Tim first of all uh tell us a bit about yourself pro aete pro climber and a variety of genres oh hi hi there Matt it’s a real pleasure to be here I’ve not um been to a par uh competition before and it’s a a whole new world for me I’m here with um Ellie Rubin uh I’m mentoring her for this year so I’ve been I’ve been doing my homework about the uh the different styles here and uh the the different groups as well um so my my background I’ve been climbing for 35 years and I’ve been a professional climber with mountain hardware for 25 years I’ve put up ice climbs and rock climbs all over the world I’ve written a book and I’ve competed in the ice climbing World Cup many years ago got on the podium a few times but I love adventure and I love so many different clim U styles of climbing you know from Deep Water soloing to going at um up mountaineering and alpinism and pretty much everything in between so I’m a very passionate climate it’s totally changed my life um and I’ve got a feeling it’s having a massive impact on a lot of people here as well like it’s uh the community that I’ve noticed um has been part of this event over the last day or two is like wow it’s really really cool it’s a special place isn’t it and and tell me a bit about your mentoring because you know as you say first time involved in this world so what are you trying to give to your athlete ah well I think that mentoring is an incredible valuable um valuable thing because uh I’ve been mentored by many people over the years um I remember when I was uh doing the ice climbing World Cup I hadn’t been mix climbing very much and um will Gad was one of the only people that spoke English that I went and had a chat with him and and I was like hey Will how do you go mix climbing and he he spent 15 minutes telling me what to do and I managed to get into the final so it’s uh you know if you if you know um if you can uh share your experiences with with people I think mentoring’s got um some some great value so yeah my my situation with with Ellie is um I was invited to be part of the Sami team which is the Scara athlete mentoring initiative and it’s a um an opportunity for people from previously um perceive like minority or under represented groups an opportunity for them to get into climbing and potentially work in the industry and potentially an athlete in the industry if they’re not already and really help them to flourish so with regards to Ellie um she’s competed many times she’s she’s been on the podium many times and really um we teamed up so that I could Mentor her to help her a little bit with her climbing and she could Mentor me to help me with the world of parac climbing so it’s uh that’s where we’re at yeah wow and I guess you have a lot to offer because not only you know very accomplished outdoor clim but you’ve had that comp experience so presumably you can tell her sort of how to deal with some of the nerves and emotions that come comp well yes absolutely Theory yeah yeah so it’s an interesting one because um yeah Ellie it’s interesting I Ellie and I have only hung out with each other a little bit and um she’s really well kind of seeded into her world and I think because I’m new to this world I’ve got a lot to learn you know so I can’t like just dive in there and start giving her advice on on her sport which is you know very personal to her so I’m really here um as a satellite on this particular um occasion to learn a lot and see what’s going on all right well it’s great to have you here and almost underway for the first categories for the women’s women’s beat three so that’s the least visually impaired and then on the right hand side men’s be3 same thing Andrew Martinez from the USA will get underway now if you’ve watched this comp so far you’ll know the CME play a big part in this but the crowd will be a little silent during this competition because uh we want to give some space for the athletes themselves to climb and obviously concentration and they need to hear their sight guide so we don’t need to be quiet in the commentary box but you will notice a bit of a Dro in volume until they top out and Tim I don’t know if you’ve ever done any uh visually impaired climbing before I’ve had a go with it put a blindfold on and it’s the the endurance is insane of what these guys do do because they have to lock everything off they don’t necessarily know where they’re going yeah yeah absolutely I’ve um I’ve just been hosting some of the Brett Rock shows in Canada recently and one of them was climbing blind with Jesse dufton who was here yesterday competing um and it he climbed up the old man aoy on lead which is like a 510 traditional climb five pitches long and it’s it’s incredibly incredibly um impressive um and he really can’t see at all so working with a a sight guide with u Molly is crucial for him and I think yesterday actually he had a an issue with the communication with the comms and his sight uh guide Molly wasn’t able to communicate with him so that made it quite tough for him to move forward so there it’s a real teamwork operation here between the climber and the and the site guide yeah His Radio went off halfway through that route apparently so he had to deal with quite a lot so Andrew on the right shaking out now this is a tricky section for him because we’ve seen lots of crossr moves here and the um accuracy for Andrew Martinez there on the right has got to be perfect this is pretty hard for him and then Ion on the left hand side shaking out underneath the big holds I was doing a bit of reading up about this earlier on and uh one of the things they do um with this particular competition is they have a high contrast color with the holes so you’ll notice that there’s some really bright colors there that tends to help athletes be able to identify where they’re going yeah and he’s got a heel locked in I mean that’s such good muscle memory to to touch it with the hands and know exactly where it is for your heels impressive stuff from Andrew Ion on the left and some big jugs and the problem with big holes that she’s on is that every part of it feels like a hole you if you hit a crimp you know that that’s the crimp with something like this you know she’s got her right hand here and the jug of the volume but she might tuck the outside of the volume and think that’s the hold so it can be more difficult bumping a last see she’s missed the jib there but now crosses through beautifully do you know apparently that the human body has about um 13 million receptors and 11 million of these are um all from the eyes so if you switch the eyes off there’s a much smaller percentage of information going into your body so um yeah this is incredibly difficult to do this and you can go and practice it at your local gym just go put a blindfold on and see how much endurance and lockoff power you need so Andrew’s wrapped the left arm around Ion on the layback style she’s got a left knee sort of scrubbing underneath trying to sit on that but she does fall on the left trying to go into that Prim on side Andrew looks quite casual over he does isn’t he he’s um he’s got his his wrist and his forearm resting on this hole try and get some of the lactic acid out of his forearms before he moves on this steep wall and another thing you have to consider is you know we can see we know that there’s a Crocs coming up he has no idea so it’s how long do you milk these moments for you know goes up at the right that’s more of a foothold crosses through again and he’s dropping back for a rest I think this man’s pumped right now yeah come on Andrew he’s the right foot underneath and he doesn’t exactly know where it is he’s trying to touch towards it come on yeah Crux moment for him he’s got to dig deep here finds a left flag good lad go on oh he just touched the hole there so he knows where it is drops back again you got I think he’s just got to be really quick through the sequence so he wants a rightand cross it’s going to make the next moves harder this twist the body if he can get his foot onto that old Annie’s off back and forth for Andrew but it’s a fall about halfway up so two athletes done that sladan one of our photographers here at the ifsc he’s taking some brilliant shots throughout the last week actually so go to the ifsc Instagram page if you haven’t already and Tim we interviewed you yesterday uh and your interview is going to be on today’s show for the ifsc and again you this was you and Ellie talking together about your sort of Journey so far that’s coming out today yeah cool all right this is ravan is it hang on is it I’ve got myself confused no it’s not it’s inella dragon from from Romania when we left and Away now Tim we’re not going to keep you too long we’ve got an athlete waiting but maybe call one more with me and then uh you can go back and watch the the rest of the action okay sounds good yeah before this competition I um actually taped up my fist to try and simulate what it might be like to uh climb as an Adaptive athlete and it was pretty tough actually yeah you know there’s some holes you can use and some holes you can’t but these particular routes are designed very carefully for um for the athletes and they they put lots of extra footholds and uh there’s lots of different ways of doing the climbing sequence on a lot of them so that there’s uh some variety there and it seems that the speaking to the some of the local um climbers here or some of the athletes here that they really enjoy this climbing style because it’s set specifically for them which is a bit different to your more traditional routs that are set at climbing gyms around the world yeah we talked earlier with Sebastian about setting because that is such a tricky aspect of sport you got to set you know four routes for multiple disciplines of parac climbing you know we watching the visually impaired we might have an RP category later on so it’s it’s a tough bit of setting for them to do yeah I think it’s a real art and a skill it seems agree well that’s his position on the left you can see the wall up to hold number 20 this is dragon and we are second woman to climb on this route so up towards the big bucket jugs underneath loving the chalk back as well imagine carrying that thing up the wall with you it’s huge you can’t put a price on morale Style Bar that it’s quite steep this wall it’s about 30° I think so yeah it’s um really on the arms isn’t it m well she reaches up got that a little bit wrong now wraps that left arm into an under clink on the right Chaz uh mcira from Canada Lana Yip used to be his sight guide and she’s in the building watching Chaz is uh making good work he’s nearing the crossr sequence he was brilliant during the world Champs he was uh doing handstands backstage before he went on and I made him do it about three times so we could get it on camera I think it might have destroyed his world championship hopes that that’s the thing about this isn’t it the these PE they really are athletes you know they spend a lot of time training um and you can see that with a lot of the physiques and and uh I know he was doing lots of lock offs before he was um training CH slips off that crossr move sliding down he had it it was just that left hand let him down yeah you’re right I mean and Jesse’s film is incredible if you haven’t seen it the alist Lee film is brilliant so go and watch that if you can all right we stick with inella here on the left having lost Chaz just now he’ll slip into second place second athlete out of course now this move you’ve got to be precise to get into this hole hits it first time she’s in second as well 38 is where she’s aiming for up to 30 now so some moves to go and a big lock off on that right hand she reaches wonder if she’ll go up right or go straight through to the left hand hold oh yeah she just go right these holes are quite far apart huh yeah now she’s quite strenuous holding that position to reach out left exactly big bump with the left hand as well you got to be accurate and oh there you go feeling that right she’s in got to bring the foot up though that’s coming hits the jib and moves up to 32 on the scoreboard there’s another film out the moment called um soundscape by Timmy O’Neal um it’s on the real Rock show so check that out too yeah that’s I think yeah you can watch those if you subscribe to the package or something so it’s a good chance to get involved with those Sebastian’s pointing out that we don’t have to whisper in the commentary box he is correct it’s it’s bit like if you watch snooker though like you know it’s like you just want to focus with them but uh yeah we are we are not in the stadium with the athletes and she’s starting to struggle a bit here there’s a left hand to come oh she’s trying to find some feet underneath looks for the left foot can’t find has to drop back down oh slaps up and goes all right well Tim thank you so much for joining me here in the commentary box it was awesome I know you got to go cheer on Ella um so you go do that and thank you so much and we’ll see you soon hey cheers Matt cheers thanks very much appreciate it okay well we are rotating through athletes here athletes and experts in the commentary box and I’ve got another one with me right now so uh first of all I’m just going to sort your mic out here hang going say going to fiddle around with this so could you um hang on let me just take that off we’re just we’re trying we’re trying to get things sorted here in the commentary boxes uh there you go there you go that way around well well right now uh we have got oh have we got where are we at I’ve lost all sense of everything guo there we go Gomez from Spain is underway and now Mike sorted could you tell us to those who don’t know who you are who you climb for hi I’m Cory from Team Germany and I climb in the class au2 so Cory uh what do you think of the competition so far I’ve enjoyed the roots yes it’s really hard because a lot of overhang so we always have have one route in the overhang but mostly not two so it was really pumpy and intense really hard but I think we all really enjoyed it okay well it’s good to know and uh not in finals for you yes I’m sorry about that but you get to join me here which is good and we’re watching here at Gro making good work this is the section we saw Chaz struggle on this cross through of moves and it is quite hard this because there’s a left hand and then a right hand cross under or over and not a lot of foot options I think here now when you were talking about the overhang this is a steep bit of the wall as well it’s really steep steeper than usual so he’s resting on the last of I mean their jugs kind of compared to what’s coming left hand out good work from him as he moves the feet round that’s the cross through that Chaz struggled on no such problems for gyot as he makes his way out left and I think this is the hardest route in the finals yeah AA I we think in terms of grade so a tricky one for short reaches up with the right hand locks out really claing with the right our camera catches up to him silver medal provisional with 27 30 plus is the lead for athletes in this group and how is team Germany doing because uh already some medals under your B so far so good we have five finalists and already three climbed and we have three medals so yeah it’s not a bad that’s pretty good three out of three yeah let’s hope they can maintain it now on the left uh we have Phoebe barin from the USA climbed pretty quickly through the bottom section of her route getting involved in the middle sequences now this green and yellow hold snaking its way through the roof and really interesting class there because they got merged so they are B1 two and three climbers now that might seem unfair to some people but obviously we’re trying to get people climbing and if we don’t have enough in a category we prefer them to climb and be merged that’s the theory and look at guo on the right now struggling with this he can’t work out where kind of feels like an undercling there and he drops back down sensibly to rest on that black jug like feature oh a fall from Phoebe on the left came out of nowhere greo finds the cross through reset the hands good work from him and now needs to make a big move up with the left hand which he gets locks that off and will shake out again safely through a hard sequence of moves there oh but misses went between the two crimps I think he was getting pumped as well just couldn’t hold it for as long as he needed to the athletes in the stadium and next out so tell me a bit about the atmosphere in Salt Lake because we return again but a different gym uh I like it here it’s it’s a cool facility it is as we already mentioned a steeper walls than usual but quite challenging but pretty cool and the root do put up a lot of volumes to even it out a bit um creating a few resting places but atmosphere is really really cool on the other side of the wall and right now it’s really quiet so they can hear where they have to go and they can understand their guides so yeah atmosphere is really building up and up until the ad kits fall and then it’s exploding yeah exactly that well uh Phoebe’s teammate Sida is on from the USA she’s about to get ready she’s really good I think last year she won Gold here okay so defending her gold medal yes in Salt Lake City and there’s quite a few parac comps this year spread out the last one in Arco as we’ve talked about are you going to all of them or are you pick and choosing a bit I am going to all of them so next one is in insbrook in June M then the next World Cup is in Aro in September and we have the European championship in August true in vas V yes I’m trying to get an invite to that I’m working on it so far no go if you’re listening organizing team come on commentating so SN pulling up I love how I’ve just done a job interview on live on a right through the jugs and is jugging through this sequence so just this is kind of pump management down low here she’s moving really really precisely she is isn’t she needs a bit of a swing as you can see with this NE section it’s kind of a cross through move she does holds her there if she trust big heel hook and I just am amazed that you can touch a hold and then immediately stick your heel where I mean I I lose sight of it and I can see you know they are really good in Remembering if they already had the hole then they know where it is and where they have to place their foot and they remember the shape of the holes where they are so they work with a clock system so they remember okay it’s 5:00 or 7:00 yeah that clock system is uh it sounds so easy in theory it’s not it’s not at all is it when you’re up there and you’re like I don’t know where 3:00 is meant to be I tried guiding once and it’s really really hard she wants a knee bar in here I don’t think she can get it no she can’t I think the site suggested it but then she couldn’t uh couldn’t really make it work it’s a bit far yeah you’re right it’s very hard the clock system and as the guide you have to be really really quick flying really fast yeah that’s true she did get the knee by going a move higher so allowed her not only to shake out the wave with crowd so highly important reaches up with the right hand those fingers in a Brit of a moment of cut loose and of course you got to find the feet and another knee bar she’s cruising this section so senida trying to find a good left crimp twists the body and drops in and then on the right fumia is climbing and I told this story before you came on air but he was one of the athletes who was in tons side with me over Christmas and just destroying some hard routs like unbelievable what that M was on like everyone on the beach kept just stopping and watching the Japanese par team because they were so outrageous yeah so strong yeah they really are I was yeah they taught me a lot during that trip okay so Snider is oh she is falling I was about to say she’s struggling she was struggling suddenly got burnt out though there meanwhile fumia reaches around the right which is not the way to go so a bit of a either miscommunication but he wanted oh he is again now he’s got to cross through yes better yeah he went out towards the corner and thought better of it which is good it’s really tricky with the ROP sometimes or often especially if you don’t see it and you have to be really careful with the two ropes to not get they around your neck or St like that yeah you are right rope management especially when you can’t see the Rope and it’s important part of climbing mhm absolutely well he dealt with that well got a really high right healing which he then sort of had to do a bit of an awkward move is nothing there is there I think having a couple of issues here drills that left foot in there’s nothing to be had it’s higher yeah he’s got to get a way bigger drop and sorry a way bigger lock off with the left hand to make this work he’s going again stretches maybe putting a heel hook with the left would be good yeah I think he already need something doesn’t he oh the other way around there yeah well there that’s that’s what you were talking about and look at the difference it made so good call by you crosses through with the crimp now and he moves I wonder how much that’s cost him for the rest of the climb for is searching around now we’ll pause briefly but more tricky climbing to go and I just I don’t understand how he’s got the endurance to do this they they spend such a long time in the wall I think they are the few athlet who actually sometimes time out right the rest of us Falls before the time’s running out and then look you can just Bust A Move like that out s of floating through went up towards a sloper not ideal and then cross is through again yep there it is he touched it lot of crossover moves there so many it’s all the set would say crossover moved to crossover sequence it’s CRA qualification a lot too right reaches up searching for the next hold once more brings the right foot into play now tow in as he’ll Rock up on that and power this is where we’ve seen problems he got the right which means he needs to cross with the left oh no bumps that’s smart thinking and he’s in the top spot and that is the gold medal for him as well with no climbers yet to go left to go I should say on that wall but topping it out would be great just for bragging right for his own own ego for sure and he won’t know he’s one of course no I think actually they’re not even monitors so they athletes always look for their teammates to tell them which place they in yeah there’s apps open all over the place here in the arena well he searches for the right hand gets it and just still hardly a shake out from him it’s the crimp knows where the foot is you saw him touch it before searches again big pull needed though as he reaches up towards the top of the gray volume locking off that crimp once more up with the right hand now thumb dropping down low to pull on those fingers left foot is bad it’s just a volume he’s not on a lot he’s got to a big move and no oh what a battle from fumier but that is more than enough it is dominant is it really what else can you say about that man it’s incredible there are some of our athletes who didn’t make it through or who have already climbed in the audience watching appreciating cheering cheering on exactly well we move through men’s B1 will be up uh soon let me just try to find my pieces of paper which I’ve y there’s FIA still so I think we’ve got men’s B1 and yeah that’ll be the next category out we make our way through this and yeah do uh if you’re watching this thinking you’re enjoying the Salt Lake action well there was lots that went on this week and in fact we’re going to uh bring in another another athlete in a minute so can we tag you out sure bring our next athlete in uh for a little chat because he’s come and joined us from the wall so you have a break yes I’m going to just mute the mics as we get our next guest into the commentary box right we have another guest in the commentary box and a guest with a medal to his name sir tell us who you are hello I’m Glen Todd from Australia Glenn congratulations your first World Cup uh bronze medal yep that must feel amazing yes it does tell me about the roote and your shoulder of course because uh we were concerned that you had an injury the root was really really fun really um overhung I had to put all my weight through my shoulder which I Hur my shoulder about 12 days ago and um the tape really really helped so you are heavily taped up with the black tape yeah listen we before I car on talk to you razan nerdu is underway I mean this man such an inspiration isn’t he he’s been on the top spot for such a long time y so razvan will climb but a little bit of a tricky move he’s got to creep his way underneath this blue volume and he’s in men’s beat one so this is the most impaired that you can get in this category and your see the blindfold on just to take away all sight and tell us about the atmosphere out there in the stadium cuz you’ve just climbed out there uh a supportive crowd yes everyone from Australia out there is very very happy um I think I’m the second par Australian person to get a medal so yeah it’s huge very very cool um everyone back home um s there congratulations and sent through photos of them watching it on TV no way back at home so it’s awesome that must feel fantastic the support that goes on is is great to see well razvan here is about to enter the first of the cruxes this tricky sequence where he’s got to cross through many many times it’s so crimpy up there on that angle yeah it is isn’t it and you know of course no oh reaches out around the corner locks off the crimp first time of asking this is where endurance’s really been look how slopy this second one is now he’s doing it a different way so not Crossing through bumping the left hand which is smart searching for a toe gets it now he’s got to unwind go far with this method that’s the problem and I think he might have climbed himself into a bit of a mistake here because he’s it’s by not Crossing that right arm is in the wrong place really far too far to the right so he’s going to have to rethink this drops back down reaches out again with the left hand this time he gets it and now I’d imagine he bumped that hand in or just lock it off cuz he’s a beast we’ll have to find out oh he does lock it off cuz he’s a beast awesome but now drops back down to that crimp there it is wraps the fingers around good muscle memory from him rocks up on that right foot brings the left in is going to match that no surely not yeah that’s better a left hand yeah another a fun joke back what with the athletes everyone seems to have got like a a different style jol bag yeah it’s it’s pretty cool I think so yeah T-Rex very cool I like that one of the better dinosaurs I’d say yeah trying to F the dinosaurs now can’t oh he’s standing on a bol cover now that’s fine to do but it hasn’t got any friction on it at all it can be a bit deceptive for the visually impaired climbers when you think it’s a hold and it’s not yeah tries to find a left toe it’s in underneath somewhere crosses through with the arms this man’s got such good endurance knee pressed in as he reaches up with the left hand crosses through still going he’s touched it but I think he’s going to drop that down to rest perhaps no he’s not straight on yeah reaching up with a hand here big big deep lock with the right hand left hand on nothing just a sloper oh my goodness how is he holding this he’s got to bump that left hand in surely oh he’s creeping he’s still on the sloper he’s power screaming hits it slides off and yeah you feel that if he could have just made that adjustment on the first time he might have been okay all right sir well listen we’ll say goodbye to you cuz I know you popped in for a quick interview you going I’m hoping there’s many beers on the table for celebrations tonight yeah maybe maybe maybe he says with a spot on his face all right all right M well you head off congratulations and I hope we see you so much for having me it’s a pleasure to have you always I’m sure I know some of the team Australia especially running the social media I know they’ll enjoy you uh getting that medal so see you soon have a wonderful afternoon thank you so much thanks right Cory is back in the commentary box we bring in our next athlete Cory you took a well-deserved break there we’ve also got Sebastian although he’s meant to be going and chilling cuz he’s Hill he’s never left the commentary box here so I’m sure we’ll bring him back in Lex he’s like my dad at the moment he’s organizing all the papers for me it’s he’s just on fire he hasn’t brought me any coffee yet but apart from that no no it’s fine don’t you worry Sebastian it’s fine I’ll just oh he’s cookies he’s got cookies in the house unbelievable thank you Sebastian all right so Javier is on from Spain the second Athlete on men’s beat one to climb we saw razaan doing some endurance gains an impressive climb for him just then yes we have now the most impr athletes from the visal impairment group and they are all climbing blindfolded so they all have the same yeah conditions exactly so they are ready they’ve got a good relationship that uh Spanish team finds the first hold it’s quite I’ve just realized how much of a reach that first move is there is a lower foot which he’s found now but yeah quite a tricky start yes and but they are the only category that are allowed to uh adjust and touch the different holds before they are starting yeah which is fair enough yes absolutely yes reasonable rule that one yeah and do remember these rule changes we chatted about it at the beginning but if you missed it uh every climate now has their own sight guide that’s to avoid passing on information and also everyone is now using radios which I can’t believe wasn’t a rule before we had that shouting up style had a shouting up style especially from the Japanese team that was um interesting and loud but it could of course interfere with the second climber on the wall and could get confused and having one guide per athlete is absolutely Fair because otherwise the guides already saw the rout and then have the second athlete coming in and they already know the sequences or learned um yeah out of the mistakes and yeah now it’s more fair for a aete exactly it’s good well apologies everyone for that slight break in proceeding technical incident but in the mean while Francisco we see him leaving the stage he’s done well spot him bring [Applause] yes gentlemen oh he’s so good like he’s just so so good that’s wonderful to see him in the top spot where he deserved to be three athletes competing in this category he’ll obviously be going for goal he won’t know of sces to the he just knows as asly possible this is the last of the vision impaired category so after this we move on to men’s au3 al2 2 women’s al2 women’s au2 and men’s al1 that’s the plan and uh we are going to bring some athletes in hopefully I’ve sent some people out to search for athletes who want to come into the commentary box so do keep with us as we uh look for showa here as he reaches around the corner now show is one of those athletes who Sebastian said it earlier with one of our climbers that you always think they’re about to fall off Show’s a bit like that like I always think he’s gone and then somehow he digs deep and finds something yeah y solid stuff down low I hope I haven’t just commentated cursed him but good heel locked in on the right hand side look how solid that right I can see his heel toe cam right against the wall the audience Focus remember they’re quiet to give uh so the athlete can hear the sight guide although of course with this new rule maybe that will be changing a bit maybe a little bit of cheer I don’t really think so still hard to hear is it fair enough huge drop knee in underneath there wow as he locks up that’s kind of one of his Specialties I think is that ability to sort of drop knee and lock off he does but that’s not a heel hook he finds a toe reaches out with the left he wants to go right here and now yeah makes that adjustment look at that footwork dropping the left leg back behind making a match creeping up towards the crimps good instinctive climbing from him but cross throughs coming there are some tricky crosss going on stretches up finds the crimp this time locks it off with the fingers now I would imagine he’ll do another drop knee here you can see that right leg starting to want to bend crosses through with the right right hand that is strong isn’t it and now rest and look how overhanging it is is he so wow the Instinct as well from Sha he’s got to get a 41 though if he wants a gold medal he’s in bronze of course there’s only three athletes in this category so he guaranteed a medal but he won’t want it to be bronze yeah that right foot though is not really on anything somehow he makes the move work and now yeah now drops the weight onto it oh that’s not yeah you’re right oh stretches through reaches up can’t quite find it wraps that left hand around now upgrades the foot that’s a good stuff from him he makes this match and now he’s got two kind of knees splits drops down to the next crimp crosses through searches for a left foot there’s not much to be had there though this is where you need to start rotating the body and now he does that left knee dropping down finds the crimp with the right hand he’ll need to stand up on that and go towards the next crimps up into silver medal wrap the hand it’s so accurate as well he doesn’t know that’s there he cannot see that hold remember so a lot of that’s the sight guide some it’s his own instincts and knowledge of setting and he’s not searching a lot with the hands some are doing some kind of circles until they hit the hold but he’s always yeah going far than he has to and then he drops back to the hold yeah so much strength to do that in the style he’s climbing in trust the slopers with the feet as well imagine how scary that must be standing on those slopers up there not knowing if the next hold are good reaches up with the right hand locks it off again sh IA going towards that 41 position 38 now creeping towards the gold medal on paper one of the absolute favorites to take this will he previous 14 he’s close and now 41 on the screen there’s a bit of a delay between the app and that but he is updated there that’s the gold medal which he won’t know and the crowd can’t really cheer him through it either you always always heard it uh for the other athletes when there was a new high point but not in this case no I there’s got to be some kind of signal to him we can all gasp quietly and then he’ll know with genius ideas in com box as usual shower in the corner reaches up bit wrong gets it right this time 42 he’ll want to top this route out work T but it’s still going to be a big undertaking not good holds up there oh hits the left and there’s a jump to come as well oh come on hits the right hand he’s definitely able to do that even to chump Sebastian’s going crazy in silence next time he does Fall and then the crowd react to let him know that that is enough for a gold medal and he will come down I mean that man must have so many in his cupboard I don’t know why he keeps his medals in a Cupboard but maybe he does they’re probably on the wall somewhere I’m quite impr yes where do you keep where do you where do you keep your medals yeah I have I have no medals yet so there we go I thought AAL where would you it I have a a some sort of cup uhuh yeah where’s that some box a you need to put this out on display I know think I do a toe something slaved over making that trophy it a box [Applause] right we are done with the visually uh impaired category more than halfway through now this uh coffee smear on the maps there probably likely to be me I’ll be honest well that’s a good shot of our wide on the wall you can see the different angles in play and we’ll move on soon uh are you okay to stay with me Sebastian you literally haven’t left so you can join us in a minute this this was not what Sebastian was like look I can’t talk for very long you know I’d expect him to go and sit in some kind of steam room yeah he’s sick and yet he’s here in the Box supporting us so thank you [Music] Sebastian but we’ll have a reintroduction of the athletes to the stage of the next set of athletes and there’s a lot of climbers to come for this final part of the competition yes so right now it’s A1 so seated Prim so they’re going to select so they’re just compassing up the wall really impressive it is this is uh this is the strong men of the competition s oh look is that some synchronized wheelchair action going on there al2 al2 on the right yeah that was definitely planned then wasn’t it like some kind of oh an a fighter pilot style Maneuvers awesome al2 so this is your category this is my category so Au is um app loss now SEL p on the right hand side the favorite our champion yeah I think third fourth time world champion always crushing really strong extremely good outdoor climber as well yes but actually she’s more B yeah well she’s got taste is what’s going on she’s correct I think actually most of the are I mean as I said I approve well there is remember Team USA team Japan everyone being represented here as the athletes introduced they’ll have the observation time after this this is that the final category on Final so everyone’s on stage now our finalists looking a little bit nervous some of them they’ve been waiting in isolation for a long time I think isolation closed at 11: so yeah long time they come 2: p.m. here in Salt Lake City do let us know where you’re watching from around the world if you are watching send us a Instagram if you want give us your Instagram while you okay right yeah what what your Instagram people can follow you so it’s a German but it’s that so the English translation will be Finding Dory but let see really yeah um you got to tell us a story behind this one God what is the story uh I was in the Caribbean when I first got Instagram and yeah we were smling a lot diving and yeah I got into this fish right she’s a bit crazy but really nice and I like that I had a drama teacher at school who we called uh Doran because she had the exact same personality and I Tri it very well but uh you too my my drama I just want to point out she’s an incredible woman Robin from Canada but uh yeah she had that kind of brain it’s a little bit scatty so I like your name that’s brilliant Instagram tag well there we go we look at the athletes who are out and about on the mat some categories having four some having three all depends really started qualifications so if you have more than six competitors you have four finalists and I think from 15 up it’s six final and Sarah lancom is meant to be coming into the commentary box after she climbs I’ve lined her up her favorites go after climbing afterwards together oh are you where are you going here in Salt Lake uh no we uh going to Joy’s Valley and then I will meet Sarah to go down we get red so jealous so excited red rock is amazing yeah Joe’s I I have people there and I can’t so I got to film over the next couple of days so I’m extremely jealous I might not talk to a lot of us are going there actually yes yes and then we meet Sebastian and another teammate guess more come on that’s just well there we go well you guys have got an amazing time sure okay well there is Seline P we were talking about the favorite for sure in that category but luia um has been really close inif I think there was difference of one or twoes so we can expect a fight I think excellent and the third they to yes EXA and this category here stacked as well Angelino Z favorite two favorite turn he’ll be out last all right well that’s the athletes who will compete they’re just having their last little moment we’ll just take a little bit of a pause here have a sip of water and we will return at the end of this observation period and and e [Applause] [Applause] right [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] I it continues to amazing or are you kidding me [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] yeah St [Applause] Senators that is time observation is over back isolation [Applause] right the athletes leave the stage their observation period is done they’ll return to isolation back there at the boulding area and we’re a couple of seconds or minutes away from first CL so team Germany you’ve mentioned your amazing rock climbing plans after this have you got any projects in mind any Boulders that you really want to send no actually not um because I don’t know the areas and for me of course I can use grades to orientate myself a bit but um those grades are for people with fors so they can be a really hard grade and it’s really easy for me and the other way around uh so mostly I look at the bers and decide okay this one great uh yeah and are there any uh and what are you looking forward to more Joe’s or Red Rocks I’ve never i’ I’ve been to Red Rocks and it is is really cool Joe’s I haven’t been to so I’m I’m inexperienced I it’s first time for PA I’m a little bit more into Red Rocks because I really like the desert atmosphere and difference and once You’ send the project then there’s the veg strip awaiting for the parac Carnage that could ensue y yep y that’s no comment but Yep this is where the team budget gets either doubled or blown in one roll of the dice that’s it yeah team Germany you’re not listening to this there’s no way we would gamble with your funds however if it doubled you’d be a hero to say yeah but I don’t think I will take the risk okay fair enough fair enough that’s put all my money in not your money I about the German team’s money here you know we take some of that and just put it on the roulette wheel I’ll ask how they think about it that’ll be fine what what they don’t know is’s worry about what they done now after we talked about it live that’s a very good point this hopefully they’re not listening right now I mean it’s very ear early in the morning in Germany or late at night no it’s late at night they are 8 hours ahead of us yes so it’s around I don’t know 10:00 11 well if you’re listening from Europe it’s almost bedtime all right this is it’s time to start getting the PJs on uh yeah putting the animals away for the night keep watching if you want to keep watching yeah but if you’ve got things the next day go to bed please you we don’t want to keep you up you can you can rewatch this of course but keep watching have us on in your ear you can fall asleep to our d well bit of a delay as we wait for the first athletes to come out here last couple of categories out onto the wall lots of action still to come though and uh opportunity to remind you that you can go to YouTube and watch The Climbing Club behind the scenes show we’ve been producing throughout the Salt Lake City events now that’s not just highlights like it used to be on we’re do far more for you we’ve got we got behind the scenes interviews with honold climbing the women’s Boulder final route the other day uh for this show that we’ve got for par we’ve got interviews with par athletes and coaches we’ve got explanation of classes uh or classification I should say and we also have a sneak peek at the working session for the uh Able Body Boulder comp where they stuck all the boulders back on the wall I went in there with a camera and we filmed the sort of the session yeah they could try the V out of the finals so awesome if I have no idea oh it’s one up just stay set as well understand okay I J the next athletes are out from Canada Sheamus on the right hand side and that is sorry s c c back USA on the left from al2 right so after a long pause ined I want to get crack they’re now out the stage ready to climb the nerves at this point will start to build lower limb impairment as you can see on the [Applause] left there is Sheamus from Canada and A3 athlet A3 basically means you have the wrist so that there are few many fingers left yeah you can see that on the right hand as well resting down low leaning back on the straight [Applause] arms upo is wrapping that hand underneath there is is it Kyle C she’s gone black at the moment but she’s over on the left hand side the she’s still on there she is so having a shake out of those hands preparing herself for next is always interesting because some of them choose to with some not um they have a complete different climbing style yeah it’s so fascinating I mean for me I watching their different categories you know watching everyone’s Styles and how they overcome the impairments is like one of my favorite Parts you learn so much about climbing look on the right of your screen though bit of a mistake there now gets that left hand onto the crimp from Sheamus that was an early moment for him but this crimp is going to be hard he has to use the side of his hand to push down it’s really smart it’s a low percentage move somehow he’s made it [Applause] work yeah that was awesome stuff from him he worked his way through heel up but had to put it down power better I can’t believe you could do that with that right hand look at him yeah it depends on from what angle you can grab and if you’re above it or goes and Sheamus goes double athletes falling but yeah so sometimes you can’t hold it with your body it but you can press really really good I was trying to figure it out as I was watching you know because he had to turn his hand in so many different ways it was from right to left to start with then you have to rotate the wrist through strong wrists okay so two athletes done up got au3 and al2 jamus leaves on the right hand stage back to ISO and coming on tun athletes Morgan Lumis from the USA two USA AET in women’s A2 and then on the right Nikolai Leu from Romania enter you can see slobber our photographer in the background there he’s taking some great shots go to the ifs Instagram for those yeah and he’s the only photographer here so he was running forth and back to all the shots from every athlete uh yeah it’s a good good job I having spent most of this week with him I haven’t seen him for a day and a half so yes he’s been busy I think good cardio trading for him yeah exactly okay so Morgan Lumis gets a woohoo from the crowd she looks up and gets ready obviously a lot of support for the USA athletes I keep I I keep wanting to say like home comp but for some of these you know America’s a big old country might have to fly a long way and then there is Nikolai Speedy through the first half of the route yeah that’s a good tactic to this deep part take again [Applause] [Music] so he is up to this resting point the first of the resting point for the men Morgan lus on the left is doing well but I mean that prosthetic she’s using on the right she has to be so precise with it yeah and she can’t feel um where she stands she can’t feel if she’s on the good part or on the Dual checks part and she has to trust it anyway yeah and that’s really important to remember because I mean look I mean I’ve done a million climbing sheo reviews I always talk about sensitivity what it feel feels like through the foot and if you can’t feel you foot you realize what you know how hard that is just in order to know what you’re standing on and the the subtleties that you need to do and you have to tr to trust it well on the right of your screen on the cross through Section this is what caus Sheamus some issues Nikolai gets a high right heel do I guess and then out towards the left crimp [Applause] ceg interesting both sides so left and right yeah and it’s so hard to do that Morgan Falls on the left and with Nikolai who has made his way through the first Crocs like it’s no issue super Speedy from him but he’s onto the slopers now big move up towards the crimp [Applause] and drops back down in order to rest once more he knows what’s coming up more cross throughs more thin hands rotates that body spins it through cracks another foot [Music] [Applause] up 33 moves him into the top spot as well forgot about the scoreboard there for a second 5 plus to 34 that’s the split had to stab at that left foot though and struggling maybe the first time maybe a fo drop he’s heading to the upper wall doing well here makes the match small hold as you say not too far to go plenty of time to do it in as well oh big weep as he makes that right hand move every every move the audience is getting behind now this interesting because pinches with missing fingers are really hard yeah exactly I’m just literally imagining and I’m terrible at pinches up with the right hand claing at that one good work from him hits the left fo oh this such a big move to come though and no pumping out near the top but 44 is going to be really hard for Dominic who’s coming up next to Beach just three athletes in this category Sarah’s under on the left side yes Sarah is underway Sarah LOM very popular member of the community yes she was one of the first Australian parac climbers uh I think it’s the first time they actually have the team here before was only two three athletes on their own and now they have a big big team and yeah a few of them already made it to final yeah first and I know the Australian supporters were back at home so good at supporting their athletes it’s one of those [Applause] things okay so s underway now reaching up into those under clings resting well trying to get a knee engaged underneath but can’t wraps the left hand around the next hold you have to be really TI yeah we saw it earlier but you had to get it was an awkward knee you had to get yourself into the position but she’s up into first place already 30 one to go that’s guaranteed a silver yeah she’s aiming for Road absolutely and she’ll want to leave her nothing on the table no opportunity for the next athlete to mess up Sara can’t match this though she’s got to cross through and does not [Applause] just this is a a nervy moment for her she wants to put distance between her and the next competitor who is Lucy Jah you know how good Lucy is she’s really strong she took both of the qualification she’s not on that CRI I think that was a bit of a mistake maybe I think she wanted to hit the left hand the match on but she missed the jig basara with 38 to set the high point on the route one athlete to come and she’s going to leave that in a minute meanwhile all action we turn our attention to the last athlet of men’s au3 Dominic qualifying position for his finals more than capable of making this but a long way to go he’s basically got to top the route to win this thing or a couple of moves before anyway already up to 22 the same hold but exactly honestly want to be clear so quickly through and this is ominous from Dominic here cruising at the moment how small those holds are as well choking up making sure of the movement little bump cross through with the left hand Ro takes that Palm through you got to trust friction so much on those moves thought about the high left foot changed his mind a bit a knee scrub in in order to keep on traversing Leo takes that knee through through the movement out with the right [Applause] hand already second place yeah you’re right and it’s really fast super fast yeah I mean he’s barely breathed now shaking a bit really pausing he knows what’s coming and this is a hard see to mov here and bad feet and that’s important to remember just slopers for the feet on the right needs more pressure through the arms he’s milking this rest here yeah yeah true looks to the right locks off that left arm hits the right perfectly and now he’s on the slopers with the feet and here we go final sequence on the head wall 37 38 now going for 44 plus so still work to to do for Dominic as he makes his way up Kicks out with the left foot it’s really s that’s the top that’s gold medal if he can get there 42 Now 44 plus REM is on the table left hand up couple of Bo this is a ner sequence left and no he drops it now the up class we don’t well we’re going to wait here 44 is on our score we’ll wait for the update uh and wait for confirmation of where he’s coming this we think it might be actually certainly on that score it seemed to indicate it we’ll wait and find out Sebastian is frantically typing in have we got yes we do have confirmation so Dominic wins on countback 44 plus is given ah right that was that was full on Luc J now listen you stay with us for one last and we’ll bring Sebastian back on because he’s claing it the bit to talk here so we’d love to have him back in the commentary Booth Lucy underway more than capable of making this not climbing with a prosthetic no and why would she make that decision um maybe she’s lighter that could be a one um that could be also depending on how she started climbing so maybe she never get used to it and then there’s a problem not every athlete can use this it depends on the stu um yeah maybe she just prefers it like this she still uses her stum uh to put white on it um yeah yeah which is incredible when you see it um but I’m not sure this rout has many opportunity to do that in it it’s pretty steep and I think in an overhang it’s not really a disadvantage without the second this is a long way with that right I wonder if left is much lower whether she’s slightly wrong- handed or S cuz that’s a huge stretch off that low foot but she is in first place already 42 so this is a this is a Victory lap but I think her is the top yeah she’s changed the foot now which is good cuz this is going to make at least the move possible I don’t think it was possible from that low foot I don’t chest oh yeah you’re right oh she’s just on the pinch though this is going to be him if she can find the jib without that jib I think this is going to be F long I think she’s got to go with the right hand with her impairment yes exactly and you see she can do drop the fo you wouldn’t be able to do with the second L yeah good spot well she’s wrapped herself in that was really good problem solving from our gold medalist here today she won’t know it we know it though so we can just enjoy this and not be too nervous sits on our right foot fingers wrapped around he’s not far off the top as well bumps that left hand up side pretty much yeah cut Lo there because of that lack of left leg interesting the it’s not quite a chump but you really have to commit okay that usually means it’s a jump when it says that n not a jump just a big move no the athletes job we’ll see then can Lucy expan this move to the top out she’s checked the time she knows she’s got time she has to kick up that right foot oh no stretch first really spread out rock up on this right on got to commit remember big big left hand lock off fingers out she’s touching the last hold creeps the fingers Into The Jug she’s got one hand on one hand is enough enough there she’s done that’s a top from Lucy J she comes down I mean she was the winner already but what a finish from her an emotional really right thank you so much for joining me thank you for watching me it’s been fantastic having you as usual uh I’ll let you go and we’re going to bring in someone you might Mr Sebastian has been waiting patiently for his turn on oh and Sarah’s coming Sarah is comingo and then she can join you in that case yeah Sebastian you might have to we’ll come back in to talk about it then we’ll bring Sarah on in a sec while she catches her breath in the it’s all go here in the commentary box as Trevor Smith comes on so uh so Sebastian before we swap you around with Sarah who’s come to join me uh what around what do you think of it so far incredible incredible I think the route sets hope for a top on every Route M not sure if it did it but the last one was spectacular good wasn’t it yeah Lu jar getting it done last moment right on the fingertips it was creeping those hands and wasn’t it bril oh yes look you’ve been wandering around let’s look at the results here Dominic guys set this is confirmation of earlier on that’s who you were talking about creeping those fingers in and you see the time difference oh yes you see it so it’s not countback it’s time that decides no I think then if they show the time then it’s comp then it’s du due to time because they had the same um ranking in qualification and they were just separated by 6 seconds unbelievable and Lucy jar we just saw her beat Sara who is in the commentary box with us here all right Sebastian we’re going to have to kick you out even though we just got you in um you’re incredible obviously but we have a medalist waiting in the wings here so we need to bring Sarah in so thank you Sebastian uh I’ll see you in a bit uh you can close things out this how about that thanks [Applause] mate okay we have another swap in the commentary box and right now from the USA we are watching are we watching who are we watching here I think that’s Trevor that is Trevor yes Trevor Smith on Sarah congratulations silver medal how was it out there oh you know I missed a jib when I fell so that’s kind of heartbreaking but I felt really good out there and the route was super fun and it yeah when you lose to someone topping the route it feels a lot better yeah yeah yeah it was fantastic watching so fast and smooth through that bottom section as well it was brilliant look you can tell us a bit we’re watching Brian uh oh you got Brian’s eyes well are over there yeah so look just tell us I think it’s Nathan by the way Nathan pay on the left here there we go so look tell us cuz you are you know uniquely placed to tell us about Prosthetics and how that feels you have a climbing shoe on your prosthesis does that help does it cuz the biggest thing is I mean you can’t feel can you exactly can’t feel don’t know where your foot is in space kind of have to keep looking at it I’m one of the only climbers that climbs with a walking foot with a climbing shoe on it as opposed to the climber you can see on the screen right now who’s got a specialized foot a lot of the Americans especially climb with these like really cool DIY style feet um it’s super personal preference and we’re watching here Nathan philli on the left putting quite a lot of weight through that is it a hard thing to trust oh absolutely it takes a lot of practice and a lot of training to be able to trust your prosthesis on any foothold but especially small ones yeah Nathan falls on the left Brian carries on yeah and sequences like this where you kind of swinging oh look at this from Brian I mean that left arm stump doing so much work phenomenal yeah super Dynamic climber really really strong yeah a good Ambassador for the sport as well like he’s great on camera really happy to speak about it yeah as as are you by the way thank you yeah Brian’s a great boulderer as well so it’s crazy to see him bouldering all preseason and then come out with this kind of endurance it’s phenomenal it’s annoying is yeah the rest of us are doing circuits and he’s just swinging around right he crosses through trying to unwind this is a big move though for that left side oh that’s interes but if anyone can do it it was well thought through cuzz matching on that rather than Crossing better way to do it perhaps for him yeah locking off that right arm now foot out towards the sloper Brian the second athlete out here in the top spot with 34 looking really solid still and the atmosphere out there what’s it like you know when that crowd is cheering you up the wall what does that feel like I’m really good at tuning it out so I actually don’t really hear a lot of it but but um I know my friend Josh was out there and I know his voice so when he’s yelling at me I can hear him specifically yeah is a great atmosphere a bit behind the wall here but we can hear the crowd it’s absolutely phenomenal so loud out there well Brian will be getting the full benefit of that Team USA and the crowd getting behind him he’s a what a team too yeah massive team massive team this year so he matches underneath the last sequence of holds here yeah oh I think a bit of a bubble maybe with a foot looks like it those jibs look bad too yeah nasty old ar oh yeah so he comes down but new high point from Brian we got Nico from Germany lining up on the al2 route so can I ask you more about prosthesis and climbing like that so you use a prosthesis some of the athletes don’t when do you make that decision or is that just something that comes naturally as you climb more definitely same like most of the below knee Utes go with the prosthesis I guess it’s a little bit easier to move since you have your own knee and so kind of Designing a foot that works for your body kind of suits that style of processis a little bit more and then the above knee amputees tend to go without a prosthesis or maybe with just a socket or a socket with some kind of attachment on the bottom it’s a really really personal choice I actually think sometimes especially on steeper routs that maybe I would be a better climber without my prosthesis but I’m so comfortable with it on because I’ve been an nut my entire life so it makes sense for me to climb with it and we’re watching Nicholas here an example of an athlete not using a prothesis and it changes the way you move doesn’t it it really does I think especially Lucy is so good at this style of climbing she knows her body really really well um I think you have to your body positioning is a lot more important when you’ve only got one leg we saw almost example of that there kind of getting the Rope the wrong side having to almost jump kick over the top and especially if you’re used to lead climbing and training climbing with this rope in your face especially the double rope system it’s actually very difficult you really have to maneuver around it would you prefer a lead style system I would actually yeah I would love to see that come in I agree with you I think a lot of the al2 climbers too yeah all right well Nicholas oh under this his first World Cup finals as well it’s so good to see I climbed at the Jimmy works out in Germany oh just the left hand and yeah just watching him do some of the boulders that I was struggling on he was doing it with one incredible but fell on the under but that is a new high point for men’s al2 and men’s al2 is an incredibly competitive category really really stacked exactly well could you stick with us for one more and then I know you’ve got crowd waiting in the background to go celebrate with if we see one more athlete and then we’ll swap Sebastian back in Kevin yes so this is Kevin BK who is uh really used to being the top spot of a competition yeah watching him in quales yesterday he seemed really in control climbing really beautifully seemed to get a lot of the sequencing a lot better than some of his competitors um always kind of knew which arm to go for first and never really had to backtrack on any of his moves yeah although as I welcome to the commentary box this is what happens here it’s a superpower in a way absolutely big bump up with the left hand though for him looking really good oh it’s a long way though and that match is nasty off the stump yeah makes it work though those holds look really bad do don’t they and this wraparound sequence here you got to commit to friction he’s got to heal in on the left yeah really nice and watching the Au Climbers on a route like this is just so impressive yeah I totally agree with you well he wraps that arm around adjusts with the feet he’s got to do yeah quite a big left swing here yeah this route is very wandering there’s a lot of going back and forth it’s super interesting well he’s nearing the head wall now it’s a couple of moves away above his head second place Brian’s 41 this is the last athlete out in this group so this is all to play for for the gold medal 10 moves behind locks off that right arm this is good climbing from Kevin so far doesn’t look particularly pumped yet not really yeah I think he’s kind of I don’t want to say anything now in case I Jinx him yeah I know it’s pretty it’s hard here in the Box it really is but looking a lot more in control now seems to kind of have the sequencing down for this section yeah he thought about it for a second worked out the beater and just launched into it he’s still behind Brian now on 37 [Applause] Brian is often really dominant in this category so I was surprised to not see him in qualifying in first position yesterday yeah Kevin now for the first time starting to look a bit fatigued snatching at that right oh No 41 so that is there he goes oh 42 well on our board at the moment that is the gold medal we will have to wait and just make sure uh right look I’ve taken enough of your time thank you so so much for spending uh some time after you silver than for me it’s a pleasure have an amazing Podium good luck thanks so much I’ll see you soon [Applause] by so as we swap Sebastian back into commentary box who will uh finish out this afternoon’s entertainment with us we have uh shuy from Japan looking good at the moment halfway through oh no no more than halfway through he’s 27 he’s won the thing currently we got three to go on this category though so yeah very big competitive sport class the AL always and uh we’re missing a few of the top competitors by the way from the a uh al2 Men Sport class mhm where deciding just not to compete or injuries multiple reason yeah injuries deciding not to compete here um so that’s why we see a slightly different setup in uh this sport class than in comparison to last competition sorry but that smear is outrageous yeah and when he was turning around oh when he was trying to get around the little spit there it blocked him with his knee yeah I mean that’s watching him smear with one foot on the wall it’s all in your arms at that point and definitely trusting friction somehow so looking back up thinking but he doesn’t know yet but he can be very satisfied with this performance well look another one of your teammates walks away with a medal Kevin gold for him just pushing Brian out by the smallest of margins and Trevor Smith with a bronze medal yes and Kevin and I are going together to Red Rocks tomorrow would you stop talking about this okay I I I get it you guys are having a wonderful bouldering session I’m not invited no G multi-pitch tread cring oh okay in that case I care less [Applause] wish you a wonderful trip for sure it’s going to be fun how long are you stay in for 10 days ah yeah once we under thees we have to use it right absolutely flew all the way here exactly so I thought when I go here I’m going to make a best use out of it and not just be here for the World Cup sure this is priority first things first and then we see what else the country has I’m imagining team Germany’s Vegas house uh to be quite a Wild play place to spend some time well it’s uh more than 30 friends a lot of uh nuts and other equipment so we had to fiddle around the bit with the luggage yeah with I thought you meant friends friends oh friends yeah we have to explain it’s not a usual topic on I live streams so that’s like a equipment you use for protection he talk about cams camel yeah cams but that’s it’s cam as a brand so basically I was like Jee s you got 30 person house is going to be Riot no no fair enough that makes more friends are friends yes well look underway right now who we got Gavin Nicks from the USA is out and about there he is I don’t know a huge am about Gavin but qualified in third place here we saw lots of athletes here appearing for the first time and um uh many new faces here also from uh Team USA mhm and it’s always nice to see how the community evolves and uh grow go competition by competition so for example um Glenn you had earlier here in the commentary box coming from Team Australia being here for the first time and then also finishing on a to on the on the podium MH such a nice start yeah must I mean coming into the sport and then walking away with the medal is a is a good way to do things I think yeah but G has already some competition experience already four times with us in par climbing IC par climbing so ninth position in the world championships in Baron last year and uh also a second place in the world cup Ina from 23 yeah so used to the podium but this is a a different feeling in front of your home crowd like this it can add pressure sometimes reaching through with the right hand so what do you think about the route have we seen top so far as far as I remember on that one no oh goodness man yeah not on this one I mean it’s the hardest route right it’s the hardest route so we be very interesting to see if we sees the top here or someone coming really close to the top closer to the top that’s a big move there from Gavin gets the heel back into rest but yeah a bit of a cut loose and a fly in the middle so now hooking with the pris wow I see good use of prosthesis and the thing which is also different for the other sport classes is you have very limited feeling through your prosthesis so those athletes have to look if it’s in the right place and I’m thinking of the muscles needed to heal hook now and although there are a lot of upper leg muscles it’s helpful to have a bit of caral in action so a heel hook like that is not a simple move for him to do no no no not at all and also you he has no feeling of how is it is it is it positioned well I mean in this in this little volume he has no other option but for example there you see him then looking down on the prosthesis all the time like looking is it in the right place yeah and a blocked right hand as well he’s will to scrunch the fingers up underneath he approaches this hanging tooth likee feature on the wall oh what is he doing surely you can’t surely not take theing oh that was a strange decision yeah but ited ited won’t work this way you have to take it as an as an undercling to get around it yeah going for the sloper was a brave move I don’t know if he got pumped or if he misread the route but he does come down just underneath the top spot two to go David clamar and then Ethan zilz from the USA to finish things off in this category so all to play for he looks back up I do think it might have been a bit of an error there from him you don’t usually see athletes doing that but so far provisional second place two more climbers to come so maybe a Podium for him we’ll see with the next climber out yeah so we have David CRA from Team Italy approaching the route there is David has a little look around great beard so every athlete has 40 seconds for observation and uh it’s your personal decision how you spend it yeah right storm onto it yeah overtakes it time I always find that real fascinating and I did find out what happens if you spend more than 40 minutes 40 seconds and apparently the belayer will sort of start to hustle you I don’t think anyone’s been disqualified so far I I haven’t seen anyone yet yes but I know um in some cases yeah or impact climbing they were like asked to start yeah politely told to go yeah I think it’s very important that you have your personal routine there that you always do the same in this place so I for example have always the same process I follow and uh yeah to give me good start good confidence start absolutely yeah rituals and all that are big part of climbing I think for sure yes for example I wait until I get tied in then I sit back on the ground lean back take a last short view on the route and then I stand up put on a smile and then I start climbing right away that’s my strategy that’s your strategy but next time we in finals I’ll look out for it now David is underway leaning back on this side ball in order to have a low Shake on this tricky route got to be careful with the feet through here as well 15 at the moment long way to go Yuki who came out pretty uh third in this category is on the high spot with 35 Plus yeah gin not too far behind but uh and then Nicholas a bit further by the way it’s the first Finals in al2 for my teammate Nicholas so big big day for him and also unexpected so and by the way Nicholas is the cook of Team Germany ah he’s the cook he’s the cook so Nicholas if you hear this we love what you cook for us yeah you have to say we poison you next time no right you never mess with someone who fiddles with your food fact Sebastian’s looking worried down next to me all right so David oh big move from David into the block crimp locks it off jumps that left foot over it’s interesting he’s climbing with a prosthetic and it’s yeah he’s using it but it’s a awkward one to use but he’s up under this is where we saw Nicks with the uh sloper match which oh that was close David nearly going as he sorted out the hands but found his way to stabilize and now smearing further to the left and going for it this is so crocy but he’s up and must be towards now the lead surely the score gets updated oh that’s going to be a plus 36 G 36 okay maybe wow we’ll wait for the final score exactly well that’s job done for David he now has to sit back and see whether and definitely guarantee the medal yep it might even get upgraded we’ll have to see we have to see so that’s the crowd we keep talking about the atmosphere it’s great lots of athletes in the building lots of audience members enjoying this afternoon’s entertainment it’s current 300 p.m. here in Salt Lake City his score got updated and even to 36 plus so that means at least guaranteed a silver medal very good good work from David one to go in this category only Ethan zilz can take it away from David Ethan there he enters the stage through the arch on the right back there is the rest of the bouldering area so this is a commercial gym being used for this purpose so it’s a good place for the athletes to warm up certainly lots of Boulders exactly we have the whole bouldering corner and also the back side um of the lead wall also has um rope climbing and we also can could use that for warm up so uh yeah we see Ethan here being tied into the Rope Ethan has four um IFC par competitions already done and uh three of them finished in second place so and just only one with the fifth play where who weren’t on the pum so he’s the vice Champion Vice world champion from last year’s World Championship in B There we go so can the vice Champion pull it out in front of his home crowd he’s the last athlete out onto this category we find out all right he gets underway off the ground round next time he touches the ground he’ll either be a gold medalist or not exciting times for this last athlete here as he crosses through nice and smooth from him after this we have men’s al1 and women’s au2 very spectacular sport class have to come A1 yeah campus time but uh yeah now it’s the last climber on the hardest route of this final session and Par climbing yeah see not using the prosthesis using his knee with the knee joint yeah why not it works you don’t see that too often no no it’s uh each athlete has his own self-made um climbing shoe prothesis so and there’s also it’s his own signs on how you build it how big is the shoe most athletes Los a slightly smaller shoe than on the other foot and um yeah I’m pretty sure they are working and improving constantly on it yeah techn we’ve seen that come on in recent years so he rotates through gets a higher right foot pushes towards the next jib and this is quick climbing as well from him as he enters 21 Now searching for The Jug around the corner Crossing through it looked awkward for a sec but he worked it out gets the left heel up now and resting in a pretty unrestful place to be honest I know it’s a jug but it’s uh it’s one of those places where if you rest too long it kind of has the opposite effect you have to move through after you’ve got unpumped now going back to the undercling chalking up looking back down to the crowd maybe questioning like where are you canot hear you yeah exactly where are they come on people give him some support he wants it from the home crowd he’d expect it come on Ethan now it’s getting interesting small crims there and Cutting Loose close yeah fingers of Steel as he held on to that some no oh and again kneeling uh trying to get a hook on it first with a feet but deciding just to use the knee switching feet and now bumping up to the next crimp well switching feed yeah I thought he was gone a few moves before but he’s now in nearing the podium places now below a little beautiful stalactite or how would you name it tooth I’m going with tooth maybe shark tooth it’s not a crocodile tooth more rounded definitely shark reach out I imag you could pinch it like that that’s interesting wraps those thumb I’m not sure and that match is dodgy we’ve made it work somehow now nearing the top yeah it’s coming isn’t it already in bronze medal position oh slips on 35 which means he will take the bronze medal unless things are updated I guess he might get the plus yeah but should we wait for a moment until the score updates in that case it would be silver we’ll have to wait and see and but that shows how how close they are and uh H Heart’s Not pre decided how the result looks like in the sport club exactly it’s all to play for so here we see the final result and we see the score was updated to 3 W plus that means gold medal for David CA and silver medal for Ethan because of comp back to previous round and bronze for shuy Yuki exactly that’s our top three tight there not much of a margin between bronze in first well in fact fourth place and upwards very very close right two categories to go here men’s al1 women’s au2 and uh au2 category will be watched closely by my co- commentator from earlier and then men’s al1 well you’re about to see some campus action from the men oh yes it’s going to be a good way to finish Today’s Show Show competition yeah we do finish with the mens don’t we right so that’s the results as they stand we’ll have a little pause here have a sip of water and we’ll move on to the next stage indid [Applause] [Applause] so here we go we promis the spectacle we’ve got the athletes getting going no on the uh oh no sorry Isabelle oh Isabelle I’ve got the wrong list in front of me underway for Team USA for au2 and then we just saw n there for the men’s al1 NOA I think I I pronounce it anyway wrapping her arm around on that right hand on this big green and yellow twisty snake of a root that of all the roots I think I want to try this one the most it just looks fun lots of interesting sequences 3D climbing oh yes I would have loved to try my final route the left one mhm but uh looks like it’s my roote but well you have to make it there yeah you do you have to get into the finals Sebastian of course has won quite a few medals in his time so you’re used to it yep five until now where where are your medals kept uh on a pile in front of my working computer so I can watch them every day I know athletes who hang them in hallways like uh sort of decorations trophies around the house it really depends how many you’ve got I guess I haven’t got any all right so she twists her way through here left hand up from Isabelle Isabelle had um an 11th place in the world championships burn last year and also a third place at the Salt Lake City World Cup last year here so quite new to the competition scene but already seen the podium she has but she falls off that cross through didn’t quite have maybe too low Fe we can get the arm and now this is what we’re talking about the campus from the men he’s set team Japan opening around on the campus route now that be interesting to see if the route is completely campus from bottom to top so far we have seen other sport classes climbing on it but not so far pure campus style yeah and and you don’t want to be taking your time let’s be honest than this you know you obviously you need to shake out occasionally but speed is key the quicker you do it the less time in your arms definitely definitely we we would see different pacing here between the athletes for sure also if you can skip holds you should do so we’ll see athletes who do who do big skips also oh bit of a skip there that’s what you’re were talking about but left hand just using it to go further hasn’t got a chalk back no time for chalking up just go go go has a look at down at the crowd interesting I know the others are using chalk PS as far as I remember we’ll see later yeah but uh they they can hang on one one arm and and Chu up yeah he’s deciding not to Big pull up needed here it’s right by his face he need to get hand out just getting there eyes up the next hold snatches just he’s right on the edge of his power here isn’t he I’m not sure he can do the next move he’s going to give it a good go though matching yes every time I think he’s about a fall he’s not now resting oh finally 40 what a performance yeah a crowd energized down in the stadium so Matt what do you think campusing 40 holds honestly I’ve never tried it but I quite likeed to like I’d like to give it a go just to feel the the level of burn can can you take the IC camera crew with you and do something that everyone can see afterwards I’d love to take the ifpc camera crew but I’m I’m not sure they’ll they want to film me anymore they’re uh they’re bored of My Voice by now well I think you’re not talking while you’re campusing oh what do you think so yeah they just said yes they are B yeah fair enough no he doesn’t want to do it he said no fair enough enough boys yeah someone for night can also hold the camera no problem yeah there we go you’ve got them out of a job as well that’s good because maybe if you want to look up there’s Matt trying visual impair climbing also on if YouTube channel right so it’s still missing I think Matt climbing uh campus style okay I’m down what else do we need Au Style one arm fully used the other just with the elbow did you try that already uh I think I did try that actually way back long time ago it was very hard I fell off almost immediately it was very UNC counterintuitive to what I’m used to like I feel like I could be better at cassing okay and I would love for example to prepare you that you can climb like I do like we strap together your knees oh my goodness and then we tie down your neck towards and that you can just barely see the Horizon and then first corck is getting to the wall and then let’s see how it goes Sebastian I couldn’t do what you do honestly right Reuben Elanor is struggling fighting she falls in the same sequence maybe one move more from her but that was uh this women’s route for au2 proving difficult and just two to go for the women’s category men’s al1 this is Tanner underway tari well known in finals and for his home grow let’s see what he can do yeah smashes through the beginning pillar which is probably the most awkward section because it’s less steep but for them it it helps a lot to get them off the wall and so that they can have they start directly with distance to the wall and don’t have their knees scratching against it yeah so he’s up climbing quickly as we’d expect here needs to control the swing though with the legs as well cuz speed is fine the more the legs Swing the more you have to use that core in the arms to pull you back into a per position good work from Tanner here and now stopping for the first time on a really awkward move this oh wow he’s going to the foot W to the small one wow he skips all of the hard bit to the right that’s what I said about skipping holes it can save you lots of time and energy I wonder if he plan that but that was really risky I think wow I think you’re right because the jugs on the right are better but if he gets a gold medal genius [Music] let’s see oh hanging off that arm there’s a chalk bag you were talking about exactly and then Bena Lucia cavilla on the bottom right Lucia by the way is the female athlete representative in the par climing commission at the moment so I’m working together with Luccia already for a long time so not just high performance on the wall also behind the scenes involved in a lot of processes and helping to involve the sport there we go and tan meanwhile is climbed himself into gold medal provis with two to go left hand cross come on tner you already have the bronze medal guaranteed every move counts here the two aans following up won’t make it easy for you they won’t every hold is important makes the match on the sloper big move out skipped a hold couldn’t quite do it 4 a new high point though and we go back to Lucia Capilla who I’ve been told can push salain p right to the very edge so she’s uh it’s not all going slaine’s way necessarily this Lu’s trying hard to make life difficult for her but um they are competing on so high level over so many years they know each other so well the only difference is they have the other arm impaired that’s the difference so it’s uh always interesting to see in between the two of them how they solve each section in their own unique style yeah again another nightmare for the Setters that want to try to work it out yeah yeah they have there there sometimes there are really discussions about is it uh equally possible and so on it’s not easy at all but our R are trying to best to make it as equal as possible well this is a sequence where it’s hard for her it’s like a left arm bump here exactly wow that’s smart strategic smart decision for her Sting the feed matching she’s doing really well here and so M waiting is going to be pushed so she chalks up so she didn’t find the the screw hold yet with the other hand but no training with the stum first wow that’s a risky match still she’s got to do another move off that sler gets it this time now reaching the head wall where it gets less steep come on us here this is where she has to control everything slow the heart down 39 40 now on the board so into first position easily a long way above the others it’s the left low crosses through wow oh my thought he’s going to miss it come on Lucia you can do it wow pressing now just from two sides oh wow trying to get the feet up with the left oh crimping again that was so close w wow what a fight that was 43 on the board okay senen P what can you do she will show us gaunlet thrown down now in oh Lu you can be so happy with your performance that was it could have ended earlier for sure wow and you see her smiling see well Marcus pandor is in the background he just pulled on there he is Marcus already starting to the overhanging part of the route flick that rope out behind his head there for a sec got in the way now starts his campus wants to get to a rhythm and high speed now will he do this crazy skip I wonder if they read it together no he’s going right he’s going right interesting yeah yeah come on Marcos you can do it definitely is easier that way you know maybe more moves but they are bigger holds so Marcos now nearing the podium position but not there yet yeah he’s on the third place now no guaranteed not guaranteed it’s the he’s nearing so guaranteed 41 on our score okay so that’s the at least guaranteed bronze medal position long way to go and he’s struggling for now shaking one arm come on Marcos wow really strong now distance are getting bigger and bigger and hols are getting worse and worse you see just the first few parts of the arms wow that’s a launch left very hard move that with the cross but provisional Silvera definite medal with only Angelina zala to come and selim P is underway in the meanwhile the last athlete the last female athlete out we’ve only got two to go w we almost finished the B it’s gone quick yeah it’s not only from Team Austria Angelino Zella who’s going to start in a few seconds while we’re here with senen peri on the women’s au2 final Road what can selain do here so many times she’s been in position she’s incredibly experienced such a good climber but can she keep the pressure at Bay by the way the worst result senen ever got was the second place at her very first World Cup and B in the year 2018 since then only gold what a record right but we’ve seen it before remember for example Alexander miroso World Champs everyone expected her to win she didn’t it can happen it can happen I remember the world championships in Baron last year where San started the route and fiddled her rope around a big volume a big spit right in the beginning and I talked to L see like like she was ADR up to the top and she said like she had the thought like okay this is it she could manage it and finish in first place yeah but anything can happen yeah it can Angelina Zella meanwhile is down on the left favorite on paper and S now with the heel hook looks towards the next hole bumps up the left hand she’s climbing nice and steadily the volunteer behind the reach are waiting for him to launch so that he can just pull it right off out of the way so thank you to all our volunteers here helping to have the event you’re doing a great job they are indeed good without you this wouldn’t be possible so thank you all to our hidden helpers in front and behind the cameras now Angelino is carrying a little extra muscle weight here exactly Angelino had so much fun weightlifting during the winter that he gained more than five kilos in comparison to the last season now that has meant he’s got guns of Steel but you got to drag that weight up so it could be a double-edged sword we’ll have to find out s meanwhile beautiful climbing from her flicks that leg around Angelino told me like it’s not affecting his climbing so much but he said it’s like uh was just too much fun all right well these two athletes now for the first time he pauses with one arm and a choke up selain meanwhile has got to be careful through this transition between the angles Croc is coming for her now we have Angelino nearing the podium I think he’s already on [Applause] it so s both getting huge encouragement s rocks up no angel in Sil metal position only Tanner to beat in front of him big moves from the big man on the land and now he’s already in gold medal position he doesn’t know yet he has just one goal and that’s the top yeah we want to see him do it we want both these athletes to do it Selena as well I think that’s her gold medal she’s through the bottom Croc we’ll just check that but I think it must be close for her yes she is already passed the high point of Luc she F where she has her feet now one move away from Angelina sorry two moves away from Angelina red hold purple hold finishing Glory can he do it though come on Angelina we want to see the human flag on the top oh one more come on come on he’s getting now getting the knee in there huge breach through needed though fires it okay no human flag for us today no human flag but good work from him and then selain trying to get one Mo P She Falls but it is a gold medal for her as well with 48 as we can see on the score woo what a way to end Sebastian what an end this final session that was a fun one we’ll wait for confirmation of those results and just let you know what happens now it’s podiums for the athletes we won’t be talking our way through this in fact I’ll be doing some interviews but please watch support the athletes because they will really appreciate you and we will be streaming the whole thing so we won’t be going anywhere and do have a lookout for The Climbing Club likely to be released uh maybe tonight maybe tomorrow morning we’ll see but that will have all the extra content we chatted about and of course the highlights from this finals so that’s coming up soon we’ll wait for confirmation and then we’ll say goodbye to you so we can uh go and do some interviewing work behind the scenes so Sebastian what’s the next comp we’ll see you at where are you going to be in insbrook okay by the end of June hopefully by bike mhm or I’ll send a car one and uh then uh yeah I will also go to the European championships in v and then the last World Cup will be Arco in by the end of September yes pizzas and ice cream to finish off the season and hopefully a celebration of a suful inclusion in the par Olympic Games exactly keep our fingers crossed we will know most likely before the Olympic Games in Paris which start in August this year there we go fingers crossed them well this is uh results angelella first place Tanner silor second and Marcus POS Andor in third with n finishing things up in fourth so congratulations to Angelina good work nearly top in the route 55 plus just one move away from the top Al a big success for Tanner beating Marcos they had a they’re always having like this how rivalry rivalry yeah and normally it was Marcos finishing before Turner so this time first time the other way around SEL P meanwhile takes the victory with 48 she couldn’t quite top the route came close this see a cavilla second 43 plus push Seline all the way Elena after that in third her teammate Isabelle in fourth with 24 count back counting for that right well thank you so much to everyone who’s come to join me in the commentary box from yourself Sebastian to Tim EMT himself it has been a fun series of guests thank you thank you to all the team behind the scenes working hard and of course to all the volunteers belayers photographers and everyone else so Sebastian goodbye to you sir thank you for having me Matt and see you soon I will see you soon enjoy the podium we’ll have some interviews coming for you very very soon my name is Matt groom it’s been a pleasure calling you all the action and I will return very soon have a good evening or afternoon everyone [Applause] the [Applause] I’m a very CL e [Applause] yeah e e up e [Applause] f e safe travels. G minut [Applause] e for e e that t out [Applause] e for [Applause] [Applause] really you had it in there for e e e only e for VI CE [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] lukei [Applause] repr ja [Music] [Applause] gentem e for [Applause] Wom [Applause] representing [Applause] anes Brazil araz [Applause] and our Gold Medal winner representing United States of America Zell [Applause] [Music] [Music] an United States of [Music] America e [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] w welcome the men’s rp2 medalist [Applause] representing [Applause] Germany States [Applause] and our Gold Medal winner representing Spain [Applause] [Applause] the national an of SP [Music] [Music] e e [Music] [Applause] and now please welcome the women’s al1 rp1 rp2 medalist [Applause] United States [Applause] Emily nor [Applause] W and our gold medal wi representing Austria [Applause] [Applause] now drive a of 2011 [Music] yes now please welcome RP bronze medal representing Australia Glen [Applause] representing alier [Applause] gold representing Germany for [Applause] and now pleas for the national an of [Music] [Music] [Music] you [Music] w [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] Bron members representing United States of America Andrew Martinez [Applause] W silver representing Spain grez [Applause] representing Japan h [Applause] now the national [Music] [Music] for e [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] a [Applause] now pleas welcome [Applause] men representing Romania Roan na representing Spain Francisco jaier [Applause] and our gold winner representing Japan [Applause] Now ladies and Gentlemen please e [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] W wo [Applause] now welcome women’s V1 V2 and [Applause] v3s represen [Applause] representing the United States of America sandar [Applause] gold our winner representing United States of America pH bar Now ladies and Gentlemen please the United States of [Music] [Music] [Music] America e [Music] w [Applause] now welome the men’s au3 medalist representing Canada Sheamus buan [Applause] representing Romania Nikolai mon [Applause] our winner representing Switzerland Dominique G now please R theal an ofland e [Music] [Applause] now please welcome women two [Applause] vists representing the United States of America Morgan Lumis silver medal representing Australia [Applause] Sarah representing France Lucy J [Applause] now dve the national an I [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] w [Applause] representing the United States of America Trevor Smith silver medal representing the United States of America ranara [Applause] our winner representing Germany Kevin [Applause] now the national Anem [Music] Germany e [Music] [Music] [Applause] and now please welcome the2 [Applause] representing Japan shu [Applause] silver medal representing the United States of America Ethan [Applause] Z gold medal our winner representing Italy David CER [Applause] now the national anthem of Italy [Music] we GL [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] w now please welcome the women’s A2 medalist [Applause] representing United States of America Elanor r [Music] [Applause] our winner representing France so then here now please rise if you’re a for the national anthem [Music] [Music] of e [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] please welcome The men1 Medalist [Applause] representing Austria marus [Applause] [Applause] representing the United States of America Tanner sis gold medal our winner representing Austria Angelino Z [Applause] Now ladies and Gentlemen please rise if your able to the National Anem of [Music] Austria e [Music] [Music] [Music] go [Applause] [Applause] my dear friends ifsc parim World Cup Lake City 2024 is complete but before we go because this is the only thing I’m here for light this place up one more time [Music] enjoy your even rest of your Year see you next time [Applause] [Music] [Music] for
10 Comments
This is so COOL!!
more ppl gotta watch paraclimbing, honestly it's so much more unpredictable and interesting than able climbing imhco (in my humble crippled opinion)
Incredible climbing from everyone, the level is shooting up like crazy in the various categories!
I love the paraclimbing comps, so much variety!
(Edit) Oh man, I nearly cheered when the camera crew figured out the split screen.
So impressive all around but Aita had my jaw on the ground. The way he searches around for the holds and drops back into positions. The lockoff strength these visually impaired or blind climbers need is incomprehensible.
i'm so glad that ifsc pays equal attention to paraclimbers! i enjoyed watching they competing and learnt a lot! climbers with visual impairments have such incredible lock-up strength, body awareness and muscle memory. climbers with other physical conditions wisely use their bodies and nicely transition their body weight !
selling off the rights for non para climbing and allowing it to be placed behind a paywall. but leaving paraclimbing to be streamed and posted free of charge is a wild move.
like actively saying that is is somehow worth less.
I love the paraclimbing and Matt's commentary for it. He always helps put in perspective just how challenging these climbs are, able bodied or not.
Truly amazing to watch these athletes!
Oh yes cameraman, show us the one meter below the climber's feet, it's not like anything interesting is happening above their hands.