In this Vid we go more into Depth of who I really am, why I got into trouble as a young kid, and how I won a National Title fresh out of Jail while wearing a court Mandated Ankle Bracelet. We Also scored some insane waves at Home w/ Skip & my Homies. So Enjoy……..
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#fight #waves #surf
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Got into some legal problems and then a couple years later I ended up having to go to jail and ended up winning a national title with a court mandated bracelet On I Stand Alone avoiding reality I Stand Alone something to got to be wrong with me f another pill and all my trouble seem to in the Fire now fire don’t come knocking on My It we’re [ __ ] on boys Eminem on repeat waves are on 3 feet homies about to get knee deep we’re about to score it’s going to be a good day I’m not much about freestyler but I know damn well it’s going to be a good day got something a little bit different going
On today though we’re meeting up with hilarious comedian John West and he’s going to interview me film a little Day in the Life video giving him a pass to come surf my local spots Jet’s going to nail the clips but first and foremost we’re going to link up with some of the
Boys and go for a rip down the street cuz holstead sent me a clip and the waves are absolutely [ __ ] firing so let’s go rip leave a message oh my God it’s firing out here what a giant really yeah holy [ __ ] where’s the best Peak like straight out
Like just to the right that one clip you sent looked like it was [ __ ] drain yeah that was right here holy [ __ ] it was like barreling all the way through and that one guy blew it chops out chopski nice look at this set oh my get some good shots it’s [ __ ] nice out
There we go of the chain baby this off the chain if you want subscribe to six blogs if you want to see cool cool stuff or [ __ ] like I’m C so you want to eat it eat it you Baby stand oh I stand I stand alone my Shadows mistaken me I stand alone my reflection won’t look at me trying to find a way to dig myself out and call the Fire I Stand Alone avoiding reality I Stand Alone something’s got to be wrong with me Po another pill and all my trouble seem to burn in the Fire now fire don’t come knocking on my front door cuz I don’t don’t want to see you around here anymore and may your ashes all be slipped off my floor if you come around I will put you out like I did Before I Stand Alone I stand [Applause] low [Applause] Now fire don’t come knocking on my front door cuz I don’t want to see you around here anymore and may your AES all be swept off my floor if you come around now will [Applause] be [ __ ] what a sash boys we got a couple waves under our belt landed a couple
Errors did a couple turns the brand new XTR Zeke model by Rusty goes insane the stringerless epoxy technology feels good good first session nonetheless and the waves are still firing so it’s going to be an all day surfing Affair guaranteed skip boosted a couple of the biggest
Punts I ever seen dude jet was tripping on Skip’s first one and uh that’s hyped to lended a good one at the end but dude skip almost had the biggest [ __ ] punt ever dude skip took it out with a park job like that I mean the man’s going to go out and
Rip but AIO I’m proud of you for skateboarding dude it’s good to see you back in your like surf skate routs you know reio is like more surf skate Moto than people know oh skip dude look at your clip bro b it dude I’m such a
[ __ ] idiot oh my God look at this [ __ ] bro you ready to cry boom dude you [ __ ] had that thing look how big that thing was I blew it dude look I landed it too you were spinning out bro like you had it [ __ ] I’m going back out have you
Seen it what do you mean it’s [ __ ] firing out there still good yeah it’s it’s the best scripts I’ve ever seen in my life why’ we go in I don’t know cuz everybody else was going in no I’m going back out let me go park this thing
What are you going to do are you actually going to battle back out yeah F all right we’ll meet you back out just pull up like a tiny bit is that it yeah he’s got his steering wheel still locked dude oh [ __ ] I think I got to unlock it
No you’re good that’s enough I can get out you’re good you’re good turn it off get out you’re good all right all right now we’re actually going to link up with John West give him a little tour my crib he’s going to interview me ask some questions that all
You guys probably want to know so if you guys have any more questions that you want me to answer in these videos comment down below let me know don’t forget like this video And subscribe to the channel we’re always making dope [ __ ] only ones out here keeping it red
At R using punk rock music and just doing rad [ __ ] so what up Z how you doing bro good bro how are you nice to meeting you bro nice to meet you too dog I Welcome to my humble abod hell yeah dude I just setting up a new board right now dude check this thing out XTR epoxy brand new Zeke model dude getting ready for a little wave pool trip sick and you’ve been on Rusty what over 10 years on or what dude since I was like
10 years old so really like 17 years so they’ve been taking care of you for a while yeah I kind of like got boards for like a discounted rate when I was like 10 11 12 from the surf shop down in the shores and and then when I was like 13 I
Would just hang out at the surf shop like every single day and just bug the guys and they finally started giving me stickers and like put me on the team and I guess I was kind of Surfing like well enough to where I could get like photos
And they’d put them up on the shop and [ __ ] and so yeah I guess I officially got on them when I was like 13 so like 15 years now of like riding for Rusty sick and then looks like you has some other sponsors too what bule Nixon San
Diego bule Nixon San Diego Jones Soda and then a couple other companies that have been helping me out but those are kind of the main ones dude San Diego surf shops like surf and skate they kind of get me dialed in you kind of do like
All board Sports too huh I know Moto is not really a board sport but like Moto like skate snowboard yeah and you’re like really good at all of them a thanks I try I try I I used to skate a bunch when I was little like I probably could
Have gotten into like the competitive scene in skating but I was like 13 14 and then I broke both my legs skating this big stair set when I was 14 and so I kind of quit skating until I was like like probably like 20 and then I started
Hanging with and lived moved in with a pro skateboarder Alex serente and okay hanging with like Zion W andex smidler and all those guys and got just like back into it pretty hard like in the last six seven years and like I don’t know I just love it whenever there’s
Like no waves or there’s like not enough waves like get you going fast and like get the adrenaline going skating just kind of gets me fired up cuz you can just like go fast fly high try new tricks and just like kind of get the adrenaline going and same dirt biking
But that’s why I kind of really got back into those Sports just cuz I’m an adrenaline junkie at heart yeah I know I could tell you send it big bro from like DJ too traveling like super sick and it seems like like like with allot your
Like skate stuff too it seems like you apply with surfing too I mean based on your errors and stuff like super Innovative like crazy so is that kind of inspiration there too like go from skate to Surf and try new [ __ ] for sure I think like the skating and dirt biking
Snowboarding like every other sport has like blown up as far as progression goes like in my eyes I see like skateboarding progressing like every day with like new tricks and like people going out and skating [ __ ] that like was never skated before and I feel like surfing is
Probably the slowest like action sport to progress like in the last like what like 20 years of Surfing there’s like only a handful of new tricks that you can remember like the 720 from like Alby lir and Matt Miola like my finger flip and like Baja koala’s finger flip like
In 10 years like that’s all that has been done so you’re trying to set the bar High and higher higher like kind of like show there’s different stuff to be done B 100% I feel like in skating snowboarding dirt biking they’re doing like new tricks and nbds like every year
And like just being more creative and with like skating that’s what kind of got me inspired to like go try flip tricks in the wave pool and go try like 360 shets and treay flips and I don’t know I just feel like it kind of expands
My creativity and also just gets me like fired up to like push the limits but I got a bunch of my boards over here check out so this is one you wrote at I thought wasn’t a rostic color was that oh that was the first day yeah well one
You took like an early wipe out or like when you had like dive down do like like air falling from so the first day at blacks I wrote a 70 that was a rosta like Rusty 70 and I was ditching under cuz I kind of paddled for
Like the first wave of the set and the next one was like the biggest wave I’ve ever seen in San Diego in my entire life like I would say 30 ft easy like top to bottom and this legendary like OG lifegard from San Diego like was on the
Top like he was getting into it and he didn’t quite make it and got smoked and I took it like directly on the head was like straight under him were you tripping or like what were your like emotions that moment like I know you probably want to keep composure but I
Was tripping dude I like didn’t have a vest or anything and like I knew black has like long like long period long sets I was like oh I’m taking this thing on the head there’s going to be 10 more after it and I kind of got really smoked on
That thing but then like kind of was able to make it under the next one after I ditched and like made it out pretty easy so you didn’t get work too bad I didn’t get too work but the guy who jumped on that thing got [ __ ] smoked
Dude and um I ended up talking to him about it and then a couple other guys that were out there like Josh Kerr was riding a 97 that day okay and um got an insane Barrel like pulled into a big tube right after that and I saw him was
Tripping out he was like [ __ ] I almost made the barrel of my life and I was tripping cuz I was like dude I can’t believe you pulled into that thing on a 97 yeah and I took this thing to Ocean Beach San Francisco on that last swell that was huge as
Well thing goes good but he’s got like a pretty wide variety of big wave boards cuz he won like a big wave World Tour event in Toto Santos and so he kind of told me that like for big barrels you’d want like a kneier thing like this okay
Big kind of like narrower board and then for kind of just like straight big waves in general you want kind of like as much volume as you can and paddle power just to like get into the waves sure this is the SD model this is kind of like my
Go-to board super light epoxy yeah and like I said it’s a little wider tail block a little wider in the nose and then um basically just like a standard shortboard I kind of just shrunk it down to make it into more of a Cali grer super flat not too much rocker goes
Insane dude the rusty SD models kind of like my go-to I mean you got to represent San Diego you know sure but then kind of the little Flames has kind of been like my signature fast yeah I like to go fast it’s my little signature
Paint job um and yeah dude I got a toe board right here that I used at big toe to Santos you ever felt the toe board maybe Tanner weit good these things are crazy bro oh it’s like super like kind of thin huh super thin super tiny and super heavy
Shoot yeah bro rode that at Big Toto Santos and then at another like Secret spot and like big sir we towed into like I don’t know 20 foot plus surf slobbing so for a toeb it looks like you don’t really need like a lot of length huh no
For toe boards you basically want like way smaller than your normal shortboards like I mean even my smallest boards like I don’t know 53 or 5’4 and this thing’s like way smaller way thinner I think it’s only even like yeah 15.75 wide and 1.56 thick so like unbel
Ably narrow and unbelievably thin but yeah that thing’s a blade I could Flex him like 200 trophies but that trophy is the only one that really means anything to me what does that mean well I won a West Coast Regional Championship when I was like 17 years old and after I like
Got into some legal problems and then a couple years later I ended up having to go to jail and rehab and after I got a rehab and I was like a year sober I had an ankle bracelet on and I was like dealing with some some Court legal
Troubles and then I went back to Cal I went back to Arizona to like finish rehab yeah and then they let me come back to California with a court mandated ankle bracet on after not surfing for like almost 2 years I was in sober living home in enanas and uh going back
To school at Mir Costa and I got to compete in like NSSA Nationals and ended up winning a national title with a court mandated bracelet on so got carried up the beach by my boys with like an ankle bracelet on wrapped in like this rubber boot the Silicon Boot and uh I have
Photos of it and like duct taped to the rubber silicon Boot and like a trash bag so ankle bracelet would get wet and my peole officer let me surf because it was like a collegate event like say you have to be doing well in school and you have
To have like reports from your from your school so it was sick so that was kind of a bounceback for you then huh yeah it was like a big kind of like damn all right I haven’t surfed in a while and like obviously had dreams of like being
An amazing Surfer and like wanted to compete at the highest level and like I never was the best at contest but then to come back and like win a National Title with two years too yeah exactly with an ankle based on having not surfed for many months it was like damn all
Right yeah I want to do this for a living like sick I got back into it and like was super passionate and driven to like I don’t know Chase my dreams and Tak her from the next it’s gone really well from there too huh yeah 100% it
Kind of took off from there I’m traveling so much that it’s nice to kind of have like all my boards and home base year closer to the airport than enas and it’s always like these Pro Surfers and skaters hanging at my house grabbing my boards when I’m gone
And like breaking my [ __ ] and then just like partying and [ __ ] so it’s nice to kind of keep my stuff here when I’m home and to be honest all i surf is like the LA hoyya reefs and blacks you’re like one of the main boys too huh I try I
Mean there’s a insane crew of guys that like surf really good and like hold it down at the reefs like skip Malla JoJo Roper Jake holstead and like many more more underground guys the crew holds it down so like it’ll be an insane day at
Big Rock and like the crew of like eight or 10 guys are like alternating through and like trading off getting crazy barrels where it’s like I served Seaside yesterday and there was like 200 freaking people out battling for like a mushy wave this big and like there was
No like order in the lineup at least in the L reefs like the locals like keep ordering the lineup to where it’s like if there’s more than 10 people on the Peak at this Reef break it’s dangerous okay so like make can people move or
Like get out of the way or go in because it’s just like you can only fit a certain amount of people in the lineup on that Reef break otherwise it’s like dangerous that makes any sense got it let’s say when someone’s coming to a Sur spot like what are some like things they
Should look out for like when it comes to going to the right spot right cuz like let’s say you’re traveling somewhere you see there’s a bunch of surf spots to Ser but go to Big Rock like and get chirped out it’s probably not a good experience right sure so what
Do you think are some things people could do to like go to the right spots and make sure they have a good time I think uh some people that are kind of like beginner intermediate skill level that I know that do a good job of like paddling out the right place they kind
Of watch the waves and like watch the Surfers riding the waves and they see like if guys that are their skill level are getting good waves out there then okay maybe they can handle it okay but a if there’s already like two people paddling for every wave out there and
You see like a hectic crowded lineup like why would you paddle out and make it more crowded and instead of going and trying to find somewhere where there’s like more opportunity for catching waves and also I guess just like know your skill level cuz like it is El Nino so
That’s supposed to be like big surf and like last year blacks was like 20 to 30 fet maybe even some bigger sets and there was a lot of guys out there that couldn’t handle it yeah know so like know your skill level like make sure to
Like I don’t know look at the ocean look at the forecast sometimes the forecast can even underall how big it is and like just make sure you’re like not outgunned because uh I don’t know a lot of people got hurt last year at like big surfing the big like reefs in the Hoya
But yeah check out the boardroom do and this is like old wet suits tons of old boards a good spot for like Armageddon too huh come down here huh for sure I kind of kept all of these because um every single one of these boards has like a significant meaning to me could
You go over like maybe like two or three that mean a lot too yeah I mean this one right here is like this is actually like probably the most special board this is the one I did the first ever Superman finger flip on oh okay and what was that specifically
That was July of 2020 okay dang and that was the clip that you can hear like Josh Kerr and sierer in the background like screaming tripping yeah and it was actually like hours of trying the finger flip that day and then our session was over and the guy was running the
Operating Tower was like hey Josh Slater we got to cut it off they gave us like an hour extra and um Josh is like oh mate let me try something and came up into the tower and Josh K was helping the guy run the wave machine and my
Filmer batteries died oh and Josh Kerr’s wife was actually the one Nikki Kerr who filmed that [ __ ] super viral clip yeah also like the front pads when I’m in the wave pool yeah talk about that but do you prefer like padding on the board versus wax or I think it’s like
Feels like a skateboard you can kind of like flick it with the front pad and you can really like grip good to it yeah I mean that board’s super light too that thing’s like a wave weapon sick and then I made a copy of that and a copy of that
Was this board which had a front pad on it but I took it off which I then rode the last like two years at the wave pool okay and landed a couple insane tricks on this one as well um a big Superman air reverse on this one a big like
Superman body Vari on this one which aren’t necessarily like the first time anybody’s done it I think the Superman body varial was the first ever actually Josh K said like people have done little body varials but no one had ever gone like Superman and then like changed
Their stance and landed goofy yeah so that trick was pretty special to me seems like the way pools are kind of the spot to like test out airs and stuff huh yeah definitely was a spot for me to like practice new tricks and then just like apply them and like perfect them
Landa like my first ever like lean grab full rotation alley you and then even went like double spin on that on this board and and then couple other pretty crazy tricks like these kind of 55 Zeke models went like the best for me in the
Wave pool okay it’s like 24 25 L this is like a pretty special dark arts board that I actually just landed a really nuts finger flip on okay feel light that thing is that think is the lightest board I felt so far bro yeah that thing’s
Psycho and like I just did that finger flip on it at the wave pool oh and that was like my cleanest biggest one yet boom so this thing goes pretty insane cuz it went through went through the ringer of like crazy wipe outs and attempts trying new tricks so that thing’s pretty special
I’m going to keep that I like this keep that un lock broke out the fin box trying a finger flips did you land on your fin with your foot or yeah I land on my fin with like my leg dude that hurts so bad huh yeah it hurt dude it
Was gnarly but that thing’s going to be put on ice when I signed with B he made me like a skeleton suit with flames on it is that your model too yeah it’s kind of like the signature suit that we’ve been working on with be okay coming soon
Stay tuned and uh he just went all out and made it like completely white and did some like custom flames and skeleton [ __ ] how long you been on bu for D I’ve been on bu for like four or five years now should we go surf let’s run it let’s
Go check the waves check it out this is the uh part about pro surfing that people don’t realize but it gets kind of strenuous having to put 10 stickers on your boards when you want to just go rip and your buddy John’s waiting for you to go
Surf but it’s going to take you 30 minutes to put stickers on your board cuz you have so many damn sponsors I don’t really plan trips I basically just like look at Swell forecast and like Skip and like a bunch of my other friends like eye forecast and like have
Spots in mind that we want to go to in like this seasonal like time frame and then we see a swall like Boom book a flight like for San FR we booked our flight like an hour before we left saw that yeah Hawaii I booked my flight like
The day before and saw a bunch of swalls like all right I’m going to aahoo that probably makes it more exciting though in a way you know like it’s like off the off the whim right or you know yeah just flipping the switch and sending it a
Makes it more exciting and B like you know what you’re getting yourself into cuz the forecast is a little more predictable when it’s like two days before yeah rather than if you’re booking a flight for a trip like a month in advance you have no idea what you’re
Going to get sure so it’s nice any like particular like memorable searches I know you’ve been on a lot of searches any any of them that stand out the most I would say the chooo trip I just went on with skip like two months ago was pretty memorable cuz we scored like big
Perfect chopu with just us out like Josh Kerr and Sierra Kerr were there so we got to like share sessions with them but there was like a midday period it was just me and Skip on a tiny little boat in the middle of the ocean no one around
Perfect like huge chopes like outer ledge chops we like we’re pulling back on waves like toe waves and like knowing around and I’m like where the [ __ ] is everybody it’s Andy ironing out here like losing it that was super special just cuz I was like me and my best
Friend and fil no one out either perfect good weather everything’s perfect can’t beat that bro and there’s like a YouTube video up about it on my channel too so like we showed parts of it but we’re saving a bunch of footage from the most recent trips for like a movie that me
And Skip are working on yeah Z can destroy part two huh no it’s actually a totally different thing I I feel like after Zeke and Destroy zek and Destroy was like a highlights of like my best footage over the last couple years and it felt kind of like selfish Okay and
Like it was sick don’t get me wrong I was hyped I had a bunch of like big names like giving me props like Dam steo Danny Duncan exact poopies all the boys Kelly Slater even reposted the movie on his Instagram and said he loved it and like downloaded it to his YouTube to
Watch again and like it was sick I was super stoked on it to put all of my best [ __ ] together shouts out to Shane ketzer flow for editing that and filming a lot of it um but I me and Skip were talking like dude we want to do a project kind
Of like what K Andino did like to give back to community and it’s not really about like me or about Skip it’s about like everybody and like get all of our best friends to compile Clips together and then make a movie about like San Diego’s best Surfers okay and so that’s
Why like me and Skip have been saving Clips Jake Marshall’s saving Clips Taylor Clark Jake Marshall’s little brother Nick Marshall who landed like 720 in Haw Hawaii last year he’s nuts and like so many other underground like La Hoya and Enit guys and hopefully we’ll get some of the oide crew to chip
In clips and like come on a trip with us because uh I don’t know we just want to show that San Diego has insane Talent like St Clemen gets all this hype and love no fans to Orange County guys but we want to show like the San Diego
Rippers and San Diego surf scene cuz yeah I feel like I don’t know we got a cool badass like punk rock crew down here so so what are some of your like bucket surf trip destinations if you had to say oh dude definitely P pass Micronesia okay um it’s like super
Fickle and hard to predict as far as swells go uhhuh but you’ve seen like iconic clips of like Shane Dorian in like Stranger Than Fiction and like a big blue like pee pass Barrel where there’s like seaweed coming through the wave and um I guess m cresia got closed
During Co so like I’ve just really been wanting to go because it’s like empty nobody’s really gone there because flights are expensive and like the whole island chain was closed for like a couple years during Co it’s like a big crazy right Barrel so that’s definitely
One of the places I want to go to another one is those crazy right points in Morocco oh yeah um and I guess the only other one would be like Fiji Cloud break okay um like big cloud break sounds pretty nuts you send it big in your videos too yeah I try to
And the craziest part is like dude I used to do Wayne gnarly or [ __ ] like a couple years ago like I’m starting to get old and like have a girlfriend now and like I’m not as gnarly as I used to be and like I know bro that’s I think
About the spirit too like you’re youthful at heart too you know I say I mean B on assumption like dang out with like the groms like Mentor the kids and yeah like I think it was 3 years ago Josh Kerr was like one of the biggest persons is like [ __ ] mate you and
Your crew are [ __ ] off your head you guys have to [ __ ] film it you should have a reality TV show like Josh K was telling me this [ __ ] jimy O’Brien was like you got to start a YouTube channel and then hanging out with steo and Danny Duncan like in 2019 they were like
YouTube’s the future bro like YouTube’s going to be able to rival any other social media platform you’ll be able to you know have a DieHard fan base but more than anything YouTube is your going to be a special platform where you’ll be able to like Inspire the youth and like
Make a change in this world and like I guess I just hang hung out with all these gnarly Action Sports athletes and did dope [ __ ] on an everyday basis to the point where I was like all right let’s start documenting it pretty uh fulfilling feeling when people come up
To you and like bro I watch all your YouTube videos they inspire me dude like your videos inspire me to start skating again your videos inspired me to Surf bigger waves like whatever it may be like it if feels pretty good to like be able to inspire people and like make a
Little bit of a change in this surf world you have like good energy Too Good Vibes right it’s like try you kind of embrace everyone like it it’s good like I think that’s way to be too versus like being standoffish cuz some people get like famous and get an ego that it’s
Like come on bro you know for sure I mean dude like surfing gave me like a life out of my wildest dreams like surfing’s like a meditation for me in a sense like surfing kind of keeps me like levelheaded and all these people that like love watching my surfing videos or
Love watching my videos in general like I’m grateful for them because uh at the end of the day like I don’t know they support me so I would you say all board Sports give you that same feeling or is just surfing specifically I would say all board Sports give me that feeling of
Like that meditation or that like kind of Bring Me Back Down to Earth feeling yeah it’s hard to explain because like sometimes when there’s like troubles on the home front or when there’s like outside stressors about like I don’t know work [ __ ] girlfriend [ __ ] or like family
[ __ ] like you know my dad died when I was little my mom was like a gnarly alcoholic and went through some crazy [ __ ] Growing Up So surfing was always there for me to like it was a release for me and then when surfing was in there was like skateboarding would be
Like a way for me to get out of my own head and kind of focus on the present and be like skating and doing rad [ __ ] and just all these Action Sports have been like a nice release for me like a healthy outlet for me instead of like
Yeah going and getting into dumb fights or like using alcohol and drugs like I used to like action sports have been like a healthy natural high for me sick so I’m I’m pretty blessed to have all those Sports and like I know good community of homies that I can go surf
Skate or ride dirt biks with yeah they I’ll carry that same good energy too 100% yeah that’s that’s important it’s pretty R that’s sick I’m pretty blessed black Show’s coming out pretty C San Diego let’s go everything’s good man I can still get it up so life is good you
Know now we’re getting over the p and maybe not too much longer though right I’m already I’m already kind of balding I got Gray beard hairs I’m balding probably don’t go much longer in me look good thanks bro did you get out on any of these I’m about to right now
Are you about to go red her on these rights dude never not never under never forever check my repping n check mypp I don’t check me n let checks invol I been feeling like I’m next to God next to next to God next to next to God never n
Never under yard never ever I’m forever on check my rep n check my repertoire don’t check me nless his checks involve I’ve been feeling like I’m next to God next to next to God next to next to God never fall never ever fall never ever Stone a rolling till I’m in Rolling
Stone but I’m close to Gold need a place need a saer bank I’ve been saving change I need some space chatting in my face get around my way what you saying where you at now swear that once I leave my city never coming back down pushing T to
Glowing up around the map now real hot summer keep my cool I never act out yes indeed recognize what you want may not be what you need won’t take control of me but I got M feed hustle SM not hard to still get it by any means please
Never never under never Forever on check my check my repto don’t check me let check invol I’ve been feeling like I’m next to God next to next to God next to next to God never not never under y never ever I’m forever on check my repping n check my repertoire don’t
Check me n let just checks involve I’ve been feeling like I’m next to God next to next to God next to next to God get up had to get it by myself bad deis just have me living down in Hell paranoia so I keep it by my b Lo sleep I know the Beest on my get another sash okay I can be down I need a kind of redemption I only got like one decent wave dude you had that good layback hammer in front of me though yeah and uh you took the heat by far he comboed comb me a local spot you
Know I had the local knowledge yeah you did easy what you think jet should we try and get another session in it’s firing food and then surf again food and then surf again firing I’ll be down that as well right let me see what’s good you want anything jet on the
House oh sh plain big one perfect how’s that is that pretty good pretty dank bro break that down craziest combo you ever seen right here mm-m cream cheese bacon raisin bagel chocolate chip oh [ __ ] I’m a sugar fiend yeah chocolate chip bagel tuso cream cheese bacon egg and cheese
On the cream cheese chees chocolate chip sometimes I even throw some Nutella on that [ __ ] damn pretty good huh yeah I’m a health food Enthusiast there you go that’s sick fresh squeeze orange juice most expensive orange juice you’ll ever FY I agree yeah it was pretty pricey for
Breakfast it was like 42 bucks was it yeah thanks to John for throwing down the black card no problem ax dude it was expensive right it’s all good we’re in for the Vibes so it’s all good tell me about those acid drops you that steamer lame bro have you made one
Yet or no got really close dude on stab Highway bro yeah I’ll show you the clip all right [ __ ] basically was riding out of it and like fell like literally was riding out through the whitewash and just couldn’t pull through and then like do you try to go when it’s bigger or
Smaller or what what kind of wav size you looking for when you try to do that I don’t think I even know I think you just got to try a bunch of different theories because it’s so gnarly dude even when it’s big and a super high tide
Yeah it’s like a 20 foot drop I don’t even know if it’s humanly possible to land that have you buckled your board yet or no yeah I bu three boards in one day trying it are you serious that’s what like 1,500 bucks in one day maybe yeah mean
But your boards prob for free so I get hooked up yeah but it’s good promotion too yeah like I use kind of older boards so oh yeah makes sense I know they’re going to break but won’t use the Freshies I’ve been trying it since 2018
Bro you know one of those uh acid drop attempts in 2020 2020 yeah 2020 or 2019 I like [ __ ] up my knee really badly I think I tore my Meniscus is what it was serious yeah try and acid drop broke my board and tore my Meniscus and then the next
Year hurt my ankle really bad mhm and then I’ve also like hurt my MCL PCL surfing um pop my shoulder out hurt my back and neck a lot surfing buted or what yeah I kind of do a lot of PT and like Chiropractic work and then
Also like definitely do a lot of like stretching and yoga and [ __ ] now but uh the majority of my worst injuries have all been from like skating dirt biking or like dumb fights I got into when I was like younger yeah have you been Inus
Dirt fites or what I know on some of your YouTube videos too you got you got a couple in Oceanside right I think like another one like like out of the country too some what happened there I guess on both situations bro those ones are kind of just like pretty soft ass altercations
With like kind of some Cooks the Oceanside one guys were total CS yeah but I actually um had like way gnarlier ones that weren’t really recorded on camera when I was like a Grom because of how bad localism used to be like where I grew up yeah and like in other places
Too but I don’t want to say I’m a tough guy but I feel like I got got beat up a bunch when I was growing up Gro abuse from my elders and just got into a lot of altercations when I was a kid cuz I was just a troubled teen with not much
Guidance and I was just mad at the world for you know taking my dad away from me when I was a little kid dad passed away young and I just feel like I wasn’t afraid to get into fights and I liked kind of starting [ __ ] and I liked
Talking [ __ ] and in these situations like the Riverside CS fight I just stood up for my buddies and kind of took the brunt of it all just let him punch my boards and look like an idiot and then the situation in Mexico was minor because I’ve been hit way harder but
Basically I was kind of just trying to do something fun and get a sick clip acid drop off the rock into a wave and one of the local boys wasn’t stoked maybe I was showing him up or maybe he just thought it was disrespectful but he’s kind of a crazy individual himself
So he padded up to me and just started swinging on me and I’ve been hit pretty hard you know I’ve had guys break my jaw and been into gnarly accidents so I just kind of took the Brun of it didn’t want to be disrespectful just took the
Punches and said I was sorry so pretty minor really yeah when I was like a 17-year-old Grom an older local guy [ __ ] sucker punched me and punched me in the face and broke my jaw in two places knocked me out cold no way yeah and my I was like seizing bro like that
Guy like the guy Josh emit knocked out yeah gnarly water or on on the land right when I got back to the beach dude so that was probably one of the nest like surf fight been in yeah right here Wy dude local dude or no yeah it was
Like a local guy older guy that was just like pissed me for filming one of the Sacred spots around here that we’re not supposed to film and like he was like my boy but that’s just how he like it’s how the older guys like kind of embedded it
Into the younger kid’s head like don’t film certain spots like don’t put them on blast Don’t Bring Out of Towners to the spots and like don’t blow up like sacred spots yeah and like yeah the hierarchy and like the localism in La Hoya it always has always been pretty
Pretty crazy almost like over the top if you think about it I don’t know if I completely believe in it anymore like I was kind of raised yeah to believe a certain way but now it’s I feel like nobody owns the ocean you know sure what’s your viewpoint on it now like if
You had to say I think you been to Hawaii which probably has localism here you mentioned there’s localism other spots too like what do you think yeah dude I mean in Hawaii they kind of have a good point like the Hawaiians make a good point at Pipeline and like
The older La Hoya guys make a good point at like big rock and some of these other like special Reef breaks because they’re such a small takeoff Zone and it’s such a scary dangerous slabbing Reef break where like if there’s too many people out there or people that don’t know what
They’re doing and they’re chandeliering a wave or taking off on you not only can you get hit by their board but you can go like face first into like reef and like I actually hit my head at Big Rock when I was 16 and got like 10 Staples
So like I know how dangerous it is falling at these like Reef brakes so it makes sense to like not have beginners or cooks or people that don’t know what they’re doing out there and there’s always like 10 locals that know what they’re doing holding it down at big
Rock that are going to be just alternating yeah so like for people that aren’t from here to try and come down here and like sit out there and try and get a wave it’s like there’s no point it’s like Co rman says like there’s no point for people to paddle out to pipe
You’re not going to get a wave yeah it’s kind of like the same thing about Big Rock it’s it just small takeoff Zone and there’s like one good wave an hour so it’s like the locals are just going to alternate it’s like out of town is probably aren going to get waves sorry
John I yeah all good we’re chilling and like beginners shouldn’t even really be out there cuz they’re just going to make it dangerous for themselves and others but at the same time I don’t think like anybody owns the ocean and I also think like there plenty of amazing waves
Around here to go around like we just had a sick session at a reef break and like we’re able to like get little windows by ourselves like when I went in you out there by yourself for a little bit plenty of little zones that you can
Find on your own sure that was Far almost done with the orange juice last Sip and it’s done I know should we go check some other waves I’ll be down yeah let’s do it let’s do it a little bit putting on a wet [ __ ] wet suit dude ain’t that sick sponsored guys like
Me should have like three wet suits on Deck but I don’t what she going to do about it can’t do [ __ ] stung my brand new board did to go through the glass where I think we’re I think we’re good huh good de good de we’re in the clear [Applause] Boys Nah Oh Oh see that rock skip dude had a good day trading off lives with the boys thanks to John West for coming down and filming an interview video If you guys like the video drop a like and a comment down below also let me know if you want
To talk more about how I got into some legal troubles how I was sentenced to 15 years in prison and how I did 2 years in County Jail comment down below if you want to hear more about that journey and more about that experience I want to
Make a separate video talking about my legal troubles and talking about how I got clean and sober so let me know if you want to see it um because I can do a video answering all your questions and uh yeah dude I’m just beyond stoked and
Ungrateful for uh the life I live so thank you guys for all the support and uh yeah let’s go wrap up with John to close out this video thanks for giving us to tour zek for sure of course bro fun day yeah well as usual guys if you like this series
Make sure you like And subscribe and also make sure you like And subscribe to Zeke too he’s the man and gave the full tour La Hoya Us in six spots and we had a great time so thanks again bro yeah bro and that concludes it thanks guys
20 Comments
Great job
Cardiff Reef and seaside were firing yesterday. Super clean and offshore. 5 to 6 foot 🤙🌊🦆💜💯
Great interview. Tell your story in detail you will definitely change paths for the better. Well done Z!!
Would love to hear the recovery story I’m 4 years clean
Your my favorite surfer on YouTube you remind me of me when young
Great Vid…Keep going….John Fella did good job. Enjoyed….
Hey Dude, love your videos man, keep them coming! Such a rad surfer and skater! Also I would like to hear your story man, troubles you went through and how you got to where you are today and congrats on the sobriety. Keep Ripping!
People still use The Club on steering wheels?
Getting close to 13 years completely sober, if anyone out there is struggling with substance abuse or any vices and would like somebody to talk to in the San Diego area hit me up. You're not alone, we can get thru this together!
Thanks zeke… john west does great and surfs well
“It was Andy Ironszing out there”🫡
Nice content Zeke 👍🏼
Keepin it real so sickk
Wow 15 years is a long time. I’ve been on dialysis for 15 years, we all joke that dialysis feels like a prison sentence. Ya, I’d like to know more about how you got through those years without going crazy. Hit me up if you ever come all the way up to Mendocino county.
Irado grande Zeke
Muito obrigado
First song name?
I would like to hear more of the legal story. I think it could be a positive inspiration.
Dope Q an A content
Stoked to see you ripping and holding it down for SD! 🔥
I surfed and body boarded horse shoes, Wind & Sea, scripps for years (grew up in Santa Cruz) but one day a insane fucker on a longboard paddled out at like 1-2 foot big rock, with like 500 nails (carpentry nails) pushed through the end of his board….and tried to huck his 10 foot long board at ppl. looked like a marine, crazy af.. wonder is someone destroyed him and his porcupine board..? most skitzo, fuck i've ever seen at big rock, ever. like 200 nails aimed down, and 250 up, his long board looked like a shark mouth. insanity.